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I missed the print issue you’re chasing, but the steps you’ve taken are impressive. If you can summarize, maybe we can help or at least share our collective experiences.

I deleted my post

The small twist you are seeing there is probably removed when you clamp the Y frame to the main machine frame.

It looks like you have made 60 or 70 posts in over the last couple weeks about your experiences with the printer. If you could summarize the problems in one post, maybe we could help you sort it out.

I operate 7 Taz 6, 4 Taz 5, 1 Taz 2 and a Mini. The older machines have 15 - 20 thousand hours of run time. I can tell you, from direct experience, these machines are not inherently flawed. They are not perfect, however.

Many people on the forum would be happy to help even if you aren’t getting satisfaction from support. Gathering your thoughts and making a summary post, with links to the detail posts, would be the place to start if you still need assistance.

The video: Your printer was shipped to you… yes? Shipping companies aren’t the gentlest with packages. Checking that the frame is square is recommended in the quick start… or at least its the first thing that comes to my mind. There are so many other things that affect bed’s level… rubber feet on the bottom of y-axis assembly, threaded inserts, accuracy of printed parts…

The auto-level mechanism of the TAZ6 compensates. Make sure the gantry is parallel to the bed… it’ll do the rest to make sure its printing on the plane of the glass/PEI bed. I’ve read a lot of issues with the leveling discs and the glass, but they only seem to be related to a modded printer with the modular bed.

If you haven’t, print a calibration cube for analysis. Better yet, design your own calibration cube. Maybe a 20x20x20mm with 15mm holes on one side of each axis-face, and a 14.7mm peg on the other axis face. In the end the peg should fit in the hole (you’ll need two prints).

These printers prints great out of the box, so just print some stuff. I guarantee there will be other issues to troubleshoot… :slight_smile:

I deleted my posts

I understand the frustration. Maybe this will help.

The noise you are hearing on the Z movement isn’t uncommon. Lightly lube your leadscrews with white lithium grease.

Stop worrying about the printer and bed and X axis being level to the world. Set the bubble level to the side for a few minutes. What you want is to have your X axis in the same plane with the Y.

Based on what you are seeing with the dial indicator, your X axis is not running parallel with the plane of the bed.

Jog your toolhead so the nozzle tip is ever so slightly above the front left corner washer.
Turn the printer off.
Slowly move the toolhead to position the nozzle over the front right corner washer.
Manually turn the right leadscrew until the nozzle is slightly above the washer. Visually match what the left one looked like.
Move the toolhead back to the left washer and adjust with the leadscrew.
Continue alternating until the nozzle is above left and right washers by the same distance.
Use the nozzle to do this rather than the dial indicator. The nozzle is the thing that matters.
Run a test print.

If you have manipulated each corner of the bed to achieve a bubble level, you might need to remove all that and go back to the stock setup. You want the glass to be mounted down to the bed plate the same way on all four corners. This will work unless the bed plate is jacked up or the printer is out of square or bent in some way.

Let us see the results and we can go from there.

i’ve done all that already still reads the same no matter what shim …done it.for days…that’s why I said tell me something I can use …when I show this to other printer brand owners can you guess what they say? …again my desktop cnc mills do not drop from front to back…at these prices all I asking for it better accuracy on the travel
I hope you read the little article I posted on my last postabout the bed being level parallel what ever you wish to call it if not read it it’s a quick read…the article is from simplify3d if you google …3d print problems… you’ll see lots of pictures of print issues, the causes and cures on their page…and sorry but at our shop the first thing we do it to make sure our machines are level so they’re not running up or downhill…then we check the table/bed travel to see if it’s running true … if it don’t pass the simple test within our tolerance and we can’t adjust it then there’s a problem…

That machine looked new out of the box. I can’t imagine you’ve done it all since your x axis isn’t parallel with the bed. A canted x axis also induces the z axis groaning you are hearing.

I saw the article you posted and offered a solution to the problems you pointed out in the videos. I’ve seen and corrected those problem on my machines.

Put the machine back in a stock state and do the things I suggested. Sometimes you have to start over with a fresh perspective.

Otherwise, return the printer and try a different brand. Maybe that will work out for you.

I would bet $2500 there is nothing wrong with that machine.

I’m happy to help you work through the problems but if you just want to rant… Well, good luck.