Whats the difference with the Y support 1.0 and 2.0 and the Corner 1.1 vs 2.0?
They are both pretty minor differences.
Y support 2.0 has proper clearance for the bolt head that mounts to the openbuilds rail. 1.0 doesn’t have clearance at that location. Corner 1.1 was slightly too tall on the top, so the plastic sticks up about 3-4mm above the openrail. THe 2.0 variant is flush with the rail which allows for closer bed tolerances.
I still have Acrylic Y endplates available if anyone wants a set.
Thanks for the mods, piercet! I used your “3mm” etched tall extruder body from thingiverse too.
The Y-axis looks great. Because of taxes and work, I haven’t printed yet – only ran a couple tests without filament.
I have printed after completing the X-axis mod installed and it was super smooth.
I did have some minor issues with both builds, but nothing major or different from what was already discussed.
I’ve been lurking on these forums forever… decided to finally post something. This is my Kittaz
That turned out great! Nice work! I like the Noctua fan on the extruder there too.
Discojon - Would it be possible for you to post the .stp and .stl files for the combined end plates at your convenience? Thanks for your hard work on developing the files by the way.
From what I recall I designed it in sketchup. So no STP files unfortunately.
About to finally move on this upgrade and just want to clarify a few things:
The BOM says 12 T-nuts, but in the pics it seems like there’s more than that. Can someone confirm the total amount?
I have some M5 11.1mm heat inserts. Will those work, or do I need the 6.75mm?
I’ve never used a tap before. Can you confirm this would be the easies to buy for this project? http://www.mcmaster.com/#8305a16/=12d9cpg
That’s all the q’s for now. Excited to get this installed. Thanks!
That tap will work, but I like this kit at home depot/Lowes, etc. It’s 4x as much as that single tap ($30), but this also has the drill bits, dies and taps for 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7mm. So it’s really handy to have around for other projects and a better value.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Metric-Tap-and-Die-Set-17-Piece-DWA1450/204787392
The BoM assumes you will reuse the stock T-nuts. You will need 2 per support strut piece in addition to the stock ones, 6 pieces total, for a total of 12 additional M5 T nuts. I also might be forgetting about the upper ones on the corners, which would be another 8 . With the stock T-nuts you require a total of 8 +8 +12 or 28 total.
That tap will work fine, if you are doing the modifications anyways, you may also want to buy an M3 tap and do the holes for the retrofit Nozzle wiper M3 bolts at the same time Retrofit Nozzle wiper for mounting a Lulzbot Mini style bed wiper to a Taz or other printer by piercet - Thingiverse
The 11.1mm long heat set inserts are a bit narrower at the bore than the shorter ones, so they may not lock in as well. Try one, if it doesn’t work let me know and I’ll make an stl file with slightly smaller holes to compensate.
Ended up getting the shorter heat set inserts. Needed them for the Z wobble upgrade anyways. Got all the parts ordered, and excited to see the results with this upgrade!
Has anyone tried using these V slot rails to mill aluminium? Are they rigid enough? I imagine all the debris will get caught up in the rails and cause havoc with the wheels.
There actually is one put out by the Openbuilds people
http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-ox-cnc-machine.341/
It reportedly works well
That’s exactly what I’m looking at. I’m on a budget and the Ox CNC is available in the UK at low cost. Its main job will be cutting polycarbonate and acrylic sheets, regardless of aluminium capabilities that’s something we definitely need in our workshop, but we do have one off or small run jobs that need to be done in aluminium which at present are all being outsourced to a local engineer. It’s not a massive problem as he’s quick at getting jobs done and his work is excellent, but it would be better to be able to do some of these ourselves and some of the more outlandish requests we get which we’d currently swat away, I could have a go at.
Engineers on the cnc forums seem to be of the opinion these routers are a waste of money and won’t get anything done, but there’s proof online with video’s of people cutting aluminium with them, although it seems most folks seem to be using them for cutting wood. The xcarve, shapeoko3 and a chinese 6040 are other potential candidates.
I was just wondering if anyone on here had any experience at trying it, or anyone with knowledge has an opinion on its suitability.
Aluminum extrusions in general can work well for a cnc mill, and the openrails extrusions would likely be fine for what you are looking at. I would definitely go with the solid metal wheels for that application, the rigidity would be worth the additional noise… You also would want to make sure you used thick enough extrusions for the bearing surfaces. The “C Beam” http://openbuildspartstore.com/c-beam-linear-rail/ extrusions are going to be the best bet for a mill, and if you can sister in a steel plate anywhere on those assemblies, you will end up with a fairly nice overall structure. A better solution is a recirculating ball linear rail mounted on an aluminum extrusion or similar structure to deal with the point loads over a larger surface
You can see my own CNC mill here if you like: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1497102 . I have cut an Aluminum plate with it now, it seems to work fine for that with a bit of mist cooling and shallow passes. I definitely wouldn’t attempt steel with this thing though.
Just finished upgrading my X-axis, Y-axis, extruder carriage and extruder body.
Prints great. My Y-axis has zero wobble when cold. However I have discovered I develop a slight wobble in the vertical direction with the aluminum plate when the bed heats up. The aluminum bed in the X and Y direction seems to be solid. But I’ve found I can almost lift it up just slightly when warm.
Obviously thermal expansion and all of that such what not. But I was curious if others were experiencing anything similar? Might be something as simple as tightening wheel bolts (although anymore tightening will most likely translate to a lot more drag/friction).
Just figured I’d ask the community first before I start ripping everything apart first.
Mine doesn’t flex when warm or cold. It may just need some adjustment on the cam wheel when warm.
Piercet,
Do you recommend securing the drill guides to the bed using the holes you provided in the template for the original bearing holders? That would eliminate the need for precision clamping, correct?
Yes. You want to basically center the drill guide plates on those holes and then use the m3 bolts from the old bearing mounts to exert clamp force down on the guide.
Thanks. I see you recommend printing 2 of the guides. How do you ensure the drill holes are perfectly aligned along the y-axis? For instance, how to ensure alignment of the left hole of the top guide and the left hole of the bottom guide.