I pulled out a Indicator dial, attached it to the left and right sides on the XAxis rails, measured to the aluminum bed (the starting steps to level the XAxis rails).
When the bed is moved toward back, the measurement is a 0.93mm shorter on the left and 0.5mm taller on the right than when the bed is moved forward.
This measured against the aluminum, not the floating glass bed.
How do you adjust the level of the YAxis?
Is a mm error over the bed depth a concern?
What are others seeing?
You’ll want to tighten the front left corner of the glass bed a bit, maybe loosen the rear left corner. Then tighten the front right corner a half-turn or so, or loosen the rear right corner of the glass bed to compensate.
So, you believe the glass bed is so tight that it is bending the aluminum?
I went ahead and loosened the glass retaining clips, checked again, and the aluminum bed is still tweeked, like the Y axis isn’t “square”. Again, this is only by 1mm and can be compensated with glass level adjustments.
Did you fix it? Second post is explaining it quite good!
Actually its not. He mentions loosening the glass retainers and adjusting it. The glass is disconnected completely and I am measuring to the aluminum plate not the glass.
If the aluminum bed is not level in relation to the front/back of the printer (y min/max) adjust the (glass) bed to compensate. The aluminum bed > x axis level check is only used to check the level of the Z axis, to ensure smooth movement and that you can level the (glass) bed. Any off-leveling of the aluminum bed plate can be isolated by leveling the (glass) bed.
Don’t worry about where the aluminum bed is at this point, just level the (glass) bed in relation to the nozzle to move forward.
I’ve been printing with this printer now for a few months, getting pretty good with it, def getting to know the nuances.
I just don’t think it’s worth it to worry over the small tolerances, like you would for a CNC machine, as long as it’s as close to level as possible, the nozzle doesn’t drag etc. then everything sort of levels out after the first few layers anyway…
There’s just too many factors preventing a perfectly level surface( like to the thousandth)…ie, thin aluminum bed warps, flex in the 10mm rods, minute shifts in the frames geometry etc.
My technique now, assuming the frame is “perfectly” square. To sqaure off Z, I measure on left side, from top of 10mm X-axis rod to the bottom of the top frame extrusion, then repeat for the right side, until perfect. That way I know that as Z rises, it will most likely want to stay square, vs. trying to align to the aluminum plate or the glass bed which could technically be slightly off to begin with, more chances of warp in the aluminum plate etc. Essentially I’m squaring using the component that would have the best tolerance, ie, the frame extrusions…
Then after that, since I know sliding left and Right along X, the nozzle is all squared I can then square the bed to this. I center the bed to the nozzle. Use the paper sheet method under the nozzle to get a nice even slide all the way across. One sheet for .1-.15 layer heigth, doubled up sheet for .2-.25 layer height etc.
Then, after that, since you know everything is squared along Z and X, you center the bed again with the nozzle and slide along Y, back and fourth, using the same method as above until you get a nice snug feel with the paper underneath all throughout the slide…
It’s like riding a bike, little difficult at first, but just becomes second nature…agai, the whole idea being that you’re trying to use the components with the least amount of error when starting out the squaring process…I used to square off of the glass, or aluminum plate with descent results but it was a little more tricky, the problem also being is that Z wouldn’t often not end up being square to the frame, which meant that there was more potential for it to go out of alignment over time, especially if building taller models, which I notice, did happen a lot more often.
hope this helps… 