Obviously we can dial in the extruder steps via M92 Exxx command in Pronterface to get the right esteps and fila flow. How is it done on the LCD?? I’m currently rocking the LCD lately and I’m to scared to change any of the more technical settings before I know what I’m doing…
YoU cAn Do That by navigating to:
Control > Motion and scrolling all the way down the Esteps/mm and adjust as desired then save.
DoEs Anyone HaVe An StL FiLe FoR a RePlAcEmEnT ShIfT KeY? I SeEm tO Be NeEdInG OnE!
Catchy title aint it …
Ah I see it now…awesome thanks.
Hmmm, alot of other setting under the “motion” field on this LCD…should I just leave everything stock, is there anything I should change to try and dial things in?
I would say try and see what max acceleration you can safely set–higher up in the same submenu. I heard that sock machines were fine at 700mm/s^2. I think a little higher accelerations help with cleaning up corners in ABS but would probably benefit other viscous plastics, if my understanding of fluid dynamics is correct. YoU pRoBaBlY aLrEaDy KnEw I wAs GoInG tO sAy SoMeThInG lIkE tHiS tHoUgH. TrY dOiNg ThIs On YoUr pHoNe
Ok CoOl I’lL ChEcK iT oUt.
I have the accel for x/y in pronterface set to 3000. It’s always been that way since I started using this printer. Now if I use the LCD controller, it shows 700 as the acceleration… if 3000 is ok with pronterface, I’m wondering if I could bump it up to 3000 on the LCD controller also? I’m guessing the simple answer is yes
I don’t think I would go to 3000mm/s^2. That is creating a lot of force even with a single nozzle extruder. I do 2000mm/s^2 (as you may already know) but someone thought that it wasn’t the best idea over here
I think it’s set to 3000 in software because the firmware will override for max velocities and accelerations and it makes sure that it will not choke out any other machines settings–like the Ultimaker 2.
I know on my TAZ that the higher acceleration is fine for the most part because infilling on a 45° angle splits the X&Y vector forces. But when the bed or nozzle makes a 0 turn 180° change in direction it can make a decent thud. The frame and rambo board are perfectly fine with it I’m just sure that it is a bit taxing on the belts and steppers–still haven’t done a temp measurement on the motors yet but I’m on spring break now.
Oh I see, so the firmware overrides the 3000mm/s setting in pronterface then? Same goes for printing from the LCD panel? or if I changed it in the LCD would it actually change the acceleration? What’s the point of having those settings then if they can only be truely changed in firmware?
Yes, changing it in the LCD menu will really change it for the machine.
I’m assuming that say your machine can handle 3000mm/s^2 max but you only want it to run at 2000mm/s^2 then it would work in the slicer software. Now the setting is a maximum, most rounded corners will never see these kinds of accelerations because to create an acceleration the machine has to do one or a combination of 3 things: increase velocity, decrease velocity, and/or change direction. Since circles are always changing direction there is always an acceleration but it is spread out over a, relatively, long time so the machine will never hit max accel and therefore the instantaneous force put upon the machine is much lower–known as the impulse . Same for moving through an arc in say a corner–lots of tiny direction changes, large impulse and little instantaneous force transferred–versus a hard corner or a 0 distance-180* turn–large instantaneous force and small impulse.
The same can be thought of with maximum speeds in relation to acceleration maximums–think infill, lots of zigzagging. In many situations the infill speed can be set to go really fast. But if the runs are short and the acceleration is low then the top speed is often never realized or only briefly realized. I don’t want to go into kinematics because I’ll nerd way out and lose the point. The main point is that maximum acceleration can also choke back maximum velocity even though the maximum velocity is set to be much higher.
Does this help at all or am I just babbling nonsense?
lol…not gonna lie, little bit of babble in there …
Um, so what is the stock setting in the firmware then?? too lazy to open up marlin, I think I read somewhere it 700mm/s?
What is a good setting to get the maximum out of the stock machine?
I have ball bearings and shafts on order, what about then? Or i’ll just glance over your thread about it for that question.
Oops sorry, I’m a sucker for kinematics.
Stock is 500. I’ve heard of people running it at 700 with the stock bushings. I’m the only one that I know of that runs it at 2000 I know that erv originally did the upgrade and is running at a higher acceleration, you should ask him what he’s doing. Again–for readers who don’t know–I upgraded to hardened bearings and shafts I don’t suggest my acceleration for a stock bushing setup. I didn’t post it yet on the proper thread but after about a month of constant printing I did start getting some noise on a Y axis bearing. I just took it all apart and packed the bearings with petroleum jelly and they are now silent. I probably should have done that from the start, I would suggest you do before installing them. I haven’t noticed a motor skip yet and the belts still have perfect tension with no visible deformities. There are no burns or overheating signs on the rambo so all seems good.
that’s pretty cool…can’t wait until my bearings get here to do the upgrade. So did you have trouble fitting the lm10uu bearings into the stock taz bearing holders? any modifications needed there?
What line in marlin for the accel settings? are you saving a lot of time on prints and do you find it affects the quality?
Search for x-axis backlash in the forum, it’s a pretty big thread now. That is the original post from erv doing the upgrade. Somewhere in it–I think the 3rd page–I did a how to with some photos of the most important parts of the rebuild and I’m pretty sure I threw in links to the parts from Misumi–eBay would be a better/cheaper way to go. If I were to do it again I would say print up another y-axis bearing holder in ABS just in case, you have to flex the bearing cups a lot to get the new bearings in. But this is just to be safe, I didn’t run into any problems or need any other modifications to do the upgrade.
I forget the exact line but it’s in the top of the configuration header file where the other velocity and acceleration variables are declared. Else you can find it in the LCD menu and change and save it there.
I save a good amount of time, may not be super worth it if you are fine with hitting run and coming back tomorrow morning. I think with ABS it is a huge improvement especially with the dreaded pointed overhangs. Search for print resolution on the forum and you will see some of my before and after photos–granted I also upgraded hotends but I think the higher acceleration was really key to getting a better print. I can’t say much for other plastics although I got two spools of HIPS from Jet even though I ordered ABS.
Ok great. Yes, I’ve read all those posts, have a pretty good idea of what I’m getting into! Having a helluva hard time sourcing the hardened rods though, looks like fastenal wants a minimum order of 150$ that’s about 6 or 7 rods, which is not so bad but I’m just so tapped right now I need to respect my budget, was only planning on starting with the two for the X carriage. And at misumi, they’re 20$US each, plus shipping. And ebay, I can’t find “hardened” rods at 500mm for the life of me. Searched for hours. Plenty of none hardened versions though.
These may work for you. Can you get to Misumi? I know they are more expensive but you know for sure what you are getting.
thanks. ebay link says out of stock.
Looking like I’ll have to go with Misumi or fastenal with their minimum order quantity. I guess I could always use extra rods, have spent quite a bit lately though on the old girl