@Tommy, 3D printing is as much and art as it is a science/mechanical process.
The science are aspects like materials (filaments), temperatures, nozzle size, speed, etc. These are all variables, which, as you can imagine, when you add them up, make for a butt-load (tech term) of permutations.
The art is HOW you deal with all of these variables.
There’s a bit of bootstrapping you need to go through in order to create a baseline, even with a printer as well calibrated as the Taz. From a solid baseline, you will be able to experiment and modify with greater accuracy and control.
- space between nozzle and bed (use the method described in the user manual)
- width of filament (enter this in the slicer) EVERY FILAMENT IS DIFFERENT!
- Confirm layer height matches what is entered in slicer by measuring the skirt
- Follow suggested temps for you filament choice. If things are not flowing, adjust by +/- 2 deg at a time.
- let things stabilize before you hit “go”
- Slower is better until you get familiar with your printer / filaments. 40 - 60 mms is reasonable
- Print small, simple models first (<30 min. prints). Watch them print ALL THE WAY THROUGH! yes, sit in front of your printer for a half hour and watch the whole process. Amazing what you will learn about the behavior of your setup.
- Use easy filaments first
- PLA. Period.
- once you nail that filament, move to ABS. Learn about temp. control. ABS is a pain on larger prints.
- Other, so many others… PETG, TGLASE, Exotics, etc, etc.
*6. WATCH OUT FOR SOME EXOTICS!!
- Glow in the dark, metal additive, carbon…THEY WILL SHRED YOUR BRASS NOZZLE. There are alternative nozzles if you print these often.
OK, so this is really just a quick primer.
Get back into printing. Don’t get frustrated. There’s a HUGE community here to help.