I've made the G-Code in Slic3r, now what to use to print it?

Can I use Cura to print it, or is there a better option?

Cheers

I use Pronterface (http://www.pronterface.com/) to speak to multiple printers, including a Taz. It works just fine. You can also use Repetier Host.

If this is something you plan to do often, you might want to set up Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi (or suitable discarded laptop). That works very well, and gives you a nice, accessible web interface.

I’m not sure about every Taz model, but you should be able to put the GCODE on an SD card.
Put the card into the Printer Control Panel.
You can then print directly from the card using the control panel.
My Taz 5 has an LCD screen and a control knob.
Just select - Print From SD Card and then select your GCODE file.
The Printer will heat up and when it’s up to temp it will begin printing.



Best regards,
PCH

Thanks for the replies. The Mini doesn’t support SD cards, so I have to use a pc, but that’s no problem. I downloaded the compiled pronterface files for windows at it seems to work fine. I say seems, because a bit on my printer cracked so it is now hors de combat until the replacement parts arrive

Cheers

Les

Pronterface is a good choice… But just for the record, you can also use Cura for gcode files. After you click the “Load” button, go to the file type drop down and change it to “Gcode files” and you will be able to import and visualize the layers. Then click the “Control” button and print just as you would with an STL file.

I wasn’t sure what sort of printer you were using as you didn’t specify in the original post.
Using Pronterface is very easy and a good solution, just make sure to prevent your PC from going to sleep while printing.

Another more DIYish solution is to run OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi.
This would allow you to print from an SD card or even print over Wifi.
You access the Pi from your PC or you can add a small touch screen and control it locally.
OctoPrint has Cura built in so it can even slice on the Raspberry Pi for you.
OctoPrint also gives you WebCam support for remote monitoring and whatever device control you can imagine.
I believe OctoPrint will work on a Taz Mini, but you’ll have to ask someone who actually knows… (c8



Best regards,
PCH

Thanks, and yes I should have stated the printer type in the original post, apologies for not doing that.

Another question, though this time with Cura as the software in question. Often I have ended up having to manually remove the filament before a print starts as using ABS when the printer goes through the self clean, after retraction of the filament it cools and solidifies so preventing it being fed back down to the hot nozzle. I suspect that the broken idler holder was partly to blame, but I also think that the 170 degrees that is used during self cleaning is too low.

However when I pull up the start g-code and change the temperature to 200, the self clean temperature stays at 170. Any idea what I’m doing wrong?

Cheers

Les

I have never seen that issue, and I use the default temperatures. The filament pulls back 30mm, and it has always fed back into the heat chamber just fine. So maybe just the broken idler, as you already suspect. Or… I wonder if there is some alignment problem between your print head and the extruder body? Look down from the top, make sure that the hobbed bolt drive area, the hole in extruder body, and the hole in the hot end are all properly aligned.

As I recall, there (3) temp commands before probing. For ABS there is an initial command to heat to 150c, then it does the 30mm retraction, then there is a second command that heats to 170c before cleaning, then a third command that (again) specifies 170c before probing. Could you have missed one of them?