I picked up the TAZ3 about a year ago after reading lots of glowing reviews on it at the time. Some how, I have never produced a ‘great’ looking product off the TAZ. i have done some smaller stuff that has turned out great, we’ve coverted it to metal mass productiion and we are away.

So today here is what I’m up to. I found a .igs of a 1911 handgun frame. I want to fill in parts of the frame to the point they are normally sold as 80% lowers at gun show, meaning you need to finish the work yourself.

I have a ghost gunner. Which is a subtractive 3d Milling machine. For taking the 20% of material from 80% lower receivers. I just need some tips on why my prints come out as such shit. I’m using IC3D ABS Black 3mm, but I’ve been through the gamut of materials. My day job is I design ecigs, which I also use the 3D printer, a process that sped us up from weeks to hours.

Well for starters, thats either a taz 4 or a 5, not a taz 3. I can’t see enough of the hotend to tell which it is for certain but i can see the Z axis leadscrew that would inticate its a 4 or a 5. The Taz 4 style control box would also indicate that it was never a Taz 3.

Looking at the pictures you are extruding the ABS at too low a temperature, and probably using a cooling fan when you should never use any cooling fan wiht ABS unless you are doing a bridging exercise or an extremely small layer. Bump the temperature up to 240, turn off the fan, then print a bunch of calibration objects before attempting a gun. And then please don’t sell a 3d printed gun made out of ABS, or if you do, don’t mention which printer you printed it on when it catastrophically fails midway through the first clip.

Thanks for the tips, I forget the names of things.

I just need them as molds to machine. Cheaper to machine plastic than metal right?