Lulzbot Magnetic Flex Bed Upgrade Kit, First Impressions

I have a Lulzbot Mini2 and Lulzbot Taz Pro that I’ve been using extensively.

The Mini 2 has been incredibly reliable. The Taz Pro has been so-so (had to disable filament runout detection, had first layer unevenness problems that mostly fixed after using a more solid-flat table and adding shims to the circular-spacers, had thermistor errors 1yr in that fixed itself after 1 month of using the 2nd extruder somehow, recently stopped extruding at all during a print but extrudes manually ok but weird! and had to simplify the start-up code and that fixed it for now somehow!).

One problem I’ve never addressed is how difficult it is to take some prints off the bed. I would have to apply so much force I lift the printers… and for a recent print it STILL wouldn’t come off and I applied so much force it cracked the corner of the PEI/glass bedplate of the Mini2.

I needed to buy a replacement bed and behold I notice the Flex Bed Upgrade Kit, released a week ago (what a coincidence). I have been so mad at the print removal process I buy the kit for both the Mini2 and the TazPro.

I am 10 prints into using these flex beds and they are EXCELLENT. I remove parts in seconds! Before it was minutes of hurting myself and worrying about breaking/overbending something! The bed magnets are a lot more powerful than I expected! (definitely read the user’s manual first and be careful with the installation, you’ll pinch your fingers otherwise)

Only other special UX is, I see little whitish dots forming where the print skirt goes around. So far so great though. I’ll definitely chime back if there’s an issue. Tentatively recommended for anyone having the same frustration with print removal!

Hey Bro! I just installed my OctoGrab™ Magnetic Bed. I have a question… I’m using Polylite PLA on my Workhorse with the new bed. I did a test print and my part had aggressive warping. Any idea on why? Has this happened to you ?

I’ve had no unusual warping here, just typical elephant’s foot that I always chamfer (and adjust Z offset) to compensate for. How’s your initial layer bed temp and normal bed temp? Theoretically the initial few layers should be all that get affected by any bed-related factor anyway. Can you post a picture of the warping for better context?

Thanks for replying bro! Its wired because it happened twice (this is my second try)

Build Plate Temperature Initial Layer [55 C]
Build Plate Temperature [45]
Infill Density [25]

Little update… The part completely detached from the bed

It looks like your first layer is too loose. Try adjusting your z offset to squish the first layer a little more.

Could it help if i change my temperatures to

Build Plate Temperature Initial Layer [60 C]
Build Plate Temperature [50]

For PLA on a PEI bed, I leave the bed temp at 60 throughout the entire print.

50C is actually the ideal removal temp for PLA on PEI.

I’m really thankful for your help!

I leave in Honduras and currently we have a really hot weather. I cant afford to air conditioning my house so it makes it different to print hahaha. I use this parameters and they are working perfectly:

Build Plate Temperature Initial Layer [60 C]
Build Plate Temperature [50]

I didn’t leave 60C because my house gets pretty hot during the day. I learned a lot today! Thanks and greetings from Honduras!

Just installed the new modular bed and magnetic flexbed on my Taz 6. Then printed with PLA. Removing printed objects is a breeze. So easy. I noticed that it takes the bed longer to heat up. the flexible magnetic sheet of steel is probably the reason.

when printing with PLA, my taz 6 calls for 70C bed temperature.

I’ve been working perfectly on 60C on my bead. I’m using 3D-Fuel Standard PLA and Polymaker Polylite PLA on my Workhorse. And yes… the bed needs just a little more to heat up haha but it’s worth it.