We had a little concern about customers forgetting to remove the USB support before opening the electronics enclosure. This can potentially cause damage to the board, so be sure to remove the old support before opening!
We have a new revision available that clips directly to the RAMBo board, and will not need to be removed when opening the electronics case.
Thanks, guys. I figured it out (fairly obvious once you actually print out the part - no way it could go on from the outside). I was able to install it without unplugging the case fan. I just opened up the case just enough to reach the USB socket, and slipped it on.
My usb connection just came loose, and only then do I find out about this fix. Since this thread has been around for years now, why is this not part of the product? Meanwhile, I have a dead printer… any suggestions on resoldering?
Soldering is not difficult to learn, but if you haven’t done it before, I would not make installing a new part on a circuit board your first project.
If the board itself is not significantly damaged, soldering on a new USB socket should be a straightforward job for anyone with even a little experience working with electronics. If you have the replacement socket (or if yours is still usable), and the board doesn’t have a chunk missing out of it, it’s just a few minute job. Getting the board out of the case probably takes longer than the soldering.
If you don’t have a friend who is experienced in soldering, a radio or TV repair place should be able to do it for you. Othr places to check: A high school or vocational school “shop” class; most ham radio operators I know are hand with a soldering iron (or at the least, they know someone who is); or if there is a “makerspace” in your area you could ask around there. (There are probably 2 or 3 kids in the 6th grade class where I volunteer that I would have no qualms about having them solder something like this.)
If you are in my area of Vermont (a long shot, I know) I’d be happy to solder it for you at no charge as long as you have the usable parts.
And yes, I agree: this should be part of any new printers sold. As soon as I read this thread, I printed one up for the LB Mini in the classroom where I volunteer. I figured that connector was likely to lead a rough life. (In fact, I’d still like to find a high quality USB cable with a connector that would lay flat against the case, rather than stick straight out. Even then, I’d consider putting some sort of clamp in place to lock the cable down. I don’t want to do that with the current connector, since the clamp would make a loop of cable which could catch on something.)
But I warn you, I found the procedure to be tricky! Lot’s of cables to mix up, so make sure you take note of colors and positions. As for the steppermotor cables, they’re easy: they should be put back in order of appearance, as long as you remember z comes in two.
In the attachement "board " you can see the four pins where the usb connector use to be . They are numbered 1,2,3 and 4.
In the second picture "wires"i stripped the head off the usb cable and have four colors black ,white , red and green .
Now if we can match the colors with the number than i can directly solder the wire from the USB straight to the board. Downside is that the cable will be permanently connected to the board but i dont mind as long as it works .
I will try to match the colors to the numbers by following each wire across the usb connectors which means i have cut through the hard plastic case of the usb head and see which color connects to which pin then jump to the usb female part and see where it goes.
will keep you posted
If you have an ohm meter or continuity tester, you may be able to figure out which wire goes where with that, rather than having to cut into the USB plug case.
You will need to figure out something for a strain relief, however. Without it, those wires will pull out or break more easily than the USB socket did.
If it were me, I’d replace the USB socket, get it soldered in place and add the support. From what I can see in the picture, your board seems to be in good shape. The time to solder the connections should only be a few minutes sinc eyou already have the board out. It’s probably easier to solder than than the wires from your USB cable.
Was your old socket damaged, or can it be reused? If you need a new one, I’d try to get the same socket, so it aligns with the hole in the case (try either Aleph Objects/Lulzbot or you might try IT Works)