I was recently swapping my nozzle from 0.5 to 0.4. But it was very difficult. So hopefully Lulzbot could partner with E3D and create a Revo hotend that works with 3mm filament and works on the newer printers Taz workhorse, Taz Sidekick, etc.
Just some ideas 
Not from LulzBot, but these work as a H175 toolhead:
IT-Works 3D Hemera XS Revo 1.75mm Toolhead for LulzBot - IT-Works 3D (itworks3d.com)
I’ve got a couple that I use when I need either a big or little nozzle. For everything else, I just use the M175v2.
I’d really love to see the XS Revo used in a replacement for the Pro Dual toolhead.
What printhead? What was difficult about it? I’ve swapped nozzles on Aerostruders and it’s a breeze - heat it up, unscrew the old one, screw in the new one, you’re done.
Titan aerostruder with HE 0.5mm
Would you recommend the Hemera XS Revo 1.75mm or the M175 v2 Tool Head 1.75 mm? Also can they both do probing the bed (the shiny washers at the corners of the bed)?
(Opinion for Revo)
Pros I like the Revo because it can do easy nozzle swaps.
Cons I’m not sure if I can get a warranty for it or if it might damage my printer it wouldn’t cover my printer because it’s not a Lulzbot.
(Opinion for M175)
Pros looks like it has completely removed heat creep. I can do nozzle swaps easier than a standard Lulzbot tool head right?
Cons it still needs a wrench and heating up in order to do a nozzle change.
If you’re changing nozzles, revo xs. If you do abrasive filaments get an obxidian nozzle.
I’ve used both with PLA and never had a jam with either.
There’s no warranty issues that I can imagine would come up.
Hm yeah Aerostruder = E3D Titan Aero, should be straightforward to change those nozzles. You heated it up to your material print temp before trying to remove?
Whenever doing this, I like to take the head off the cleat on the X-axis carriage, obviously leaving wires connected, and lay it horizontal on a little cardboard box or something so it’s easy to see what you’re doing. You need to hold the heater block with an adjustable wrench or something while you take the nozzle off with a socket or nut driver. Be careful with the heater and thermistor wires.
Can it still probe the bed before printing?
Yes, the itworks3d heads are designed for these printers and fully work with the leveling system.
Thanks for that lead. I contacted them about the Revo based setup
Did they ever reply?
Did they reply? I’m hoping… soon 
.
I wouldn’t expect e3d to ever release a 3mm version of the Revo. By design, it’s essentially one piece from feed tube to nozzle, and the exterior diameter of the top of the feed tube (highlighted here) is 3mm.
That doesn’t leave room for for 2.85/3mm filament. The Mosquito hot end praises themselves for having thin heatbreak walls due to the supports, and those are .35mm thick:
So, leaving a mere .15mm for two walls and clearance between the filament and those walls just isn’t going to happen.
e3d would have to do an entirely new setup, except for the heatercore, and the 3mm hobbyist market just isn’t big enough for it. They never made a 2.85mm Hemera, so a 2.85mm Revo is also likely to never happen.
Now, if you keep a close watch on aliexpress, there may be some 2.85mm rapid change nozzle systems that get made, but as usual for those sort of things, quality control is completely random.
I’ll keep a 2.85mm aerostruder around for when 2.85mm is super cheap or for some flexible filaments, but for everything else? Go 1.75mm.
I’m waiting on parts I delivered to have my taz pro work on a revo system. The unfortunate part is I have 16 rolls of 2.85mm filament that I wouldn’t be able to use after I switch the system over to a revo. I did a few searches to make my filament 2.85 to 1.75 mm but eveything looks like some experimental DIY that can get expensive to do such a thing.
You’ll still have the 2.85 print head, right? No reason not to use up what you have when the material is suitable. I’ve got some 30+ rolls of 2.85 here at work and occasionally have something worth swapping the 1.75mm head for a 2.85mm.
Trying to finish off the rolls to then switch over to 1.75mm permanently.
I have a Revo v6 on one machine and one thing I learned the hard way is not all the nozzles are the same length. I had the z offset set for the 0,4 Revo nozzle, swapped in the 0.8 and had a nozzle crash. It was just beyond the range of my BL Touch trigger. So, if you’re going to swap nozzles a lot, be aware of that.
I’ve become a huge fan of the Slice Copperhead and Mosquito setups.
Lulzbot came out with a easy nozzle swap 2.85mm slice engineering! It’s called, Meteor 285 | Nickel Plated Brass | 0.5 mm
It looks no easier to swap than the normal mosquito used in the m175v2, where you have to have it up to temp and torque it in properly.
Yes I know it is the same as the M175 but it excepts 2.85mm filament now! What I meant by being easier is the fact that the toolhead has the heat block secured so when you change nozzles you won’t have to hold it with a wrench.
Also I have been struggling with printing some fine detail 3D prints and the filament strips when it gets retracted too much. From what I heard about the Meteor is it has bigger hobb gears and in addition to that it also has them on either side of the filament so it has plenty of grip! Compared to the stock toolheads on the newer Lulzbot printers, the Meteor should have more than enough grip to hold on to the filament even during lots of retractions!
