- Minimum layer time under cooling you mean? see attached.
- Print speed is 60mm/s
- will try the 2 at once for passive cooling.
- I’m using village plastics ABS supplied by Lulzbot.
TAZ5-N5_20151219_00.txt (43.4 KB)
Infill looks really good. Not on topic but i think its the best its ever been. You can still see those layer change marks every 5 or so layers.
Im going to try drying out the filament.
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,358174
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#inconsistent-extrusion
As per the above links, it may help as I have had the filament out and not in a dry box. I just find it funny that the protruding layer every so ofter is conveniently on the same layer that has the loop change - see previous simplify3d screencap. Could it be the coasting setting is not high enough?
Recalibrated Temp PIDs for no reason other than to be sure the temps were/ are on point. Also changed the coasting distance from .2 to 1mm but looking at this thread I think i might add a - extra restart distance as the seam seems to be on the corners. https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2881&sid=a6bf0cb3c095c782d9b66e689bec6c42&start=10
I used the 25mm cube rather than the 20 as i feel like the small size was holding temp too long. See attached.
One thing I do think may be contributing (IDK it’s up to you) but my bed seems to ‘give’ ever so slightly on the x-axis when i push it from either side; a slight wobble. My bed belt is tight, hopefully not too tight, and I imagine that this x wobble might at least contribute something…
The zoomed pic, I enhanced the contrast just to give you a better look.
It’s probably not your imagination. You may be able to move the bearing holders further inboard or outboard to counter it, or replace the bearings with different bushings to counteract the movement and hardened rods, but the main fix for that particular issue is the openbuilds modifications.
Yeah, white filament is weird with temperature, and it seems to vary by roll, but its either 5 over or under.
Can you try a different color ABS to make sure it’s not the white ABS?
Looks like you’re a tad too close to the bed on the black cube… but both cubes look good.
Yeah it seems like my bed is higher in the center 
Its actually that the extrude gets closer to the bed in the center due to rod deflection, which results in an apparent hump.
Gah! is there a way to stop this without going to v-slot? Can i just upgrade to 12mm rods?
12mm rods is possible. If I remember right someone already posted a mod for that and I think it’s on the comprehensive mod list thread.
I’m so lost and frustrated. I wanted this printer to work the way it was brought to print. I understood I was going to have to tinker and tune but not have to re-design the whole bloody thing.
FWIW, the cubes look good. Give the Z-endstop a 1/4 turn CCW. That should fix the slight flaring on the bed.
Check that the frame is square, and the gantry is level. Get a dial gauge (or two) and check that the bed is level.
When these machines are dialed in, the prints are awesome. Continue your journey…
Is this worth doing? Do you think it may stiffen up the chassis?
Depends on what your goal is. If you want a stiffer X end, I would reccommend a different project personally, but I’m also probably biased about that particular one.
I’m looking at adding this to my Taz http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1215279
I was wondering if i could steal power from the TAZ somewhere so i don’t need another power plug etc. It’d mean I find a suitable power source I can tap into and then solder up a micro usb adapter cable for it.
I added a BeagleBone to my Taz. There is a 5V tap on the Rambo that provides plenty of current. I wired from it to a power plug that I mounted to the side, and plug the BeagleBone into that.
Kenny
Can I use this as a direct replacement for the 40mm fan on the TAZ 5. My current fan is making a grinding noise.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/40mm-12v-dc-thin-fan/p/YX2503 - My local electronics supplier