Print Resolution

Hi guys, just getting caught up here. A few thoughts, as I have printed this heart gear a few times:

  1. Cool that green PLA as much as possible, 100% always on after the first layer is not too much (even if your duct is causing a rift in the space-time continuum rofl)
  2. Lower the bed temp after the first layer, from 50 to 30~35.
  3. This one sounds crazy, but I would increase your acceleration to about 1000. It will help those corners come out better.
  4. If at all possible, face the steepest overhangs toward the right, as that is where the cooling fan blows the most.

I will try give this another shot and see if I can’t get some Gcode for you guys to try.

Btw, just for fun I printed one of these at max size on a TAZ 3. Probly 100 hrs of printing, 8lb of filament (gears are thick walled, but hollow), and yes, it does turn :smiley:

So I got the new hexagon nozzle and I decided to just go and print the gear heart that amcbride is working on and see what happens. I used the same settings as mentioned before except the nozzle temp was bumped up to 240°C from 230°C. Remember I’m using ABS so the fan is off for the whole print.

  1. This one sounds crazy, but I would increase your acceleration to about 1000

I have mine set to 1700 and will probably move it up to 2000 with the Hexagon nozzle on the carriage. If you are interested in setting the acceleration this high you should see this thread.

I have to say that I am extremely impressed with the performance of new nozzle. This is definitely a huge improvement and says volumes to the difference a nozzle can make. It also speaks for what kind of contender the TAZ 5 will be in 2015 3D printing reviews. I am impressed with how this company evolves their products, can’t wait to see whats next.

I am waiting on the new TAZ 5 nozzles to be back in stock and have placed the order. So, I’m excited for the new version.

I still haven’t been able to do the overhang test on either of my printers. Just know that I haven’t forgotten about it.

I see from your new tool head mount that the idea of a filament fan on both sides of the nozzle is gone. How come? I’m planning on printing a mirror image of the current fan shroud so that I can have a dual filament fan on my budaschnozzle for PLA printing.

I am waiting on the new TAZ 5 nozzles to be back in stock and have placed the order. So, I’m excited for the new version.

I still haven’t been able to do the overhang test on either of my printers. Just know that I haven’t forgotten about it.

No worries dude, if I may suggest that you try and do one with your current TAZ setup and use the same–as much as possible–gcode so you have a good before and after comparison. I’m super curious to see if your results are as dramatic as mine.

Alright. I got my Ulti2 back and have replaced the nozzle on the TAZ4 with the new v2 extruder tool head. Time to post some results with the overhang test.
I may have jinxed myself. Now, my Ulti2 is having problems :unamused:

Here is a side by side comparison of the TAZ and Ulti2 with the overhang test. Ulti2 = blue, TAZ = black. Both are PLA prints. For this print, I am using version 1 of the TAZ extruder tool head.

Surprisingly, the TAZ did quite well considering the difficulty I’ve been having with overhangs, a la the heart gears print.

For the Ulti, I used Cura, for the TAZ print, I’m using Slic3r. I have no idea now what’s up the the Ulti. I think it has something to do w/ the perimeters and how each slicer is handling them. I noticed a lot of ‘jiggle’ in the hotend of the Ulti for this print which the TAZ wasn’t doing. Next up, I’ll show the side-by-side of the v1 and v2 TAZ tool heads.


Have you tried printing perimeter “inside out” on parts with overhangs like this? It can make a big difference as there is a bead for the overhanging bead to adhere to.

orienting the part so that the overhang section is directed to the side with the fan will help as well.

I noticed that on the budaschnozzle 2.0 extruder mount there are heat inserts to install another fan on the opposite side of the nozzle, which might help this situation. LulzBot got rid of that option on the new hexagon mount so maybe it won’t.
Weird how clean the frontside of the UM print came out in comparison to the backside and the TAZ print.

DO I do this by checking the box that says to do outside perimeters first?

I definitely did this for the overhang test on the TAZ4. The overhang side is oriented toward the fan duct. On the Ulti2, there are two fans, one on each side.

Here’s a pic of the same print using the new hexagon nozzle. Can you tell which one is which?

The new nozzle is on the left. Not a huge difference as you can see. I did piece of the heart gears though and it came out amazingly better! I will post a pic when I get a chance. There are still a few issues in some of the corners but, overall, a marked improvement.

What slicer are you using? But, no, it sounds like this would print from the outside in and that is not what you want.

For these prints, I’m using Slic3r and the medium PLA profile from the Lulzbot site. The only difference between the prints is that I raised the temp when I changed to the v2 extruder head to the recommended 205 C.

I’ll attach a pick of the checkbox in question.

Ok, so leave that box unchecked to print inside to outside perimeters.

Yes, leave unchecked. If you print the external perimeters first, you’ll be printing in mid-air for some overhangs. :slight_smile:

Thanks for the info. Like I said earlier in the thread, I’m using the Slic3r profiles that are on the Lulzbot site so the box is always unchecked by default.
I’ve been printing some student files/designs with the TAZ with success. When I get some time to print the heart gears again, I’ll post the pics here. So far the new extruder head is doing an excellent job.


Is there a way to do the “inside out” printing in Cura?
I have been paging through the Internet as well as my Lulzbot edition of Cura and can’t seem to find anything. The frustrating part is that reversing the “perimeter first” print method would really clean up a lot of my prints :smiley:


  • Banjo

p.s I will switch to Slic3r if I have to, but not having 15 tools for printing would be really nice :wink:

Hey Banjo,

Check out the Cura manual here:

I don’t believe that is changeable in Cura. Cura defaults to inner perimeters first, which I have found to be the best in my own printing.