I am getting my new TAZ up and running and trying to print the following object:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104987
here are some terrible cell phone snap shots:
The object has about a 53 degree overhang and filleted / rounded edges. I know I could break the object up in different ways and acetone weld / epoxy the pieces together, or rotate the object 90 degrees in x and use support for the cylinder bits. but right now I am trying to figure out what sorts of geometry I can and can’t print.
I am using natural ABS from lulzbot and have tried a few different slic3r configurations, including the high_quality.ini provided courtesy of lulzbot. All settings with 230 C hotend and 110 C bed.
also i’ve tried this setting, with a 40 layer raft thinking my abs was getting too hot so I needed to get it off the bed a little bit :
; layer_height = 0.25
; perimeters = 4
; top_solid_layers = 5
; bottom_solid_layers = 4
; fill_density = 0.15
; perimeter_speed = 180
; infill_speed = 180
; travel_speed = 200
; nozzle_diameter = 0.35
; filament_diameter = 2.89
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.39mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.39mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.39mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.39mm
; support material extrusion width = 0.39mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.47mm
I’ve also tried a similar, slightly slower configuration but with support material. The support structure seems to hurt more than help as the hot end tip drags across the part’s corners as it builds the support.
I think one solution would be to build multiple objects at once to make sure the perimeters cool, but really after like the fourth layer of this object the rounded corners have already begin to warp up and the hot end starts to bash against the cooled, warped plastic. I tried z lifting to avoid this without much success.
Any thoughts?