TAZ 4 & KITTAZ KISSlicer ini files

I’ve printed quite a few prints with my new KITTAZ using KISSlicer (my go-to slicer). I have a pretty good profile now that works well with the Budhashnozzle and TAZ extruder.

Here it is zipped.
KISS Slicer TAZ4 Profile.zip (3.27 KB)
To use, you have to unzip into the folder that has KISSlicer in it. There are 4 .ini files and they all have to be peers to the KISS application. Then launch KISS and you should be good to go. Note, these are for the 1_4_1_12 version but will work with the latest beta, I just haven’t optimized them yet for some of the new features.

Awesome. Going to have to try this out. I started out on KissSlicer, moved to other softwares and am making my way back to KissSlicer. Once its dialed in its hard to beat.

It makes great easily removed support and the hex infill is great.


I am a total NOOB, but I have been reading plenty before the arrival of my TAZ 5 on Thursday.
I plan on very methodically moving through most excellent guide, but would you have any recommended changes to the posted .ini’s for use with the Hexagon hot end on the TAZ 5?
3mm PLA

Also, I had some serious video issues with KISSlicer, but they are resolved now. Is there a way to run KISSlicer from Repetier-Host?

Thank you!

I don’t have a Hexagon so I can’t really tune things appropriately for it. I can offer some recommendations that will get you in the ball park based on my experience with other, similar, all metal hot ends like the E3D v6. Currently, KISS can not be run directly from RH as far as I know. I haven’t actually tried it - maybe the new 1.5 beta will but it’s not something I do.

For slicing config for Hexagon…

Start with my set of ini files. Then launch KISS.

In the Style tab - make sure the Extrusion Width and Infill Extrusion width are set to your nozzle orifice diameter - I don’t know what the TAZ 5 ships with so just check that.

Then on Material tab - You’ll want to change suck and prime to 1mm or so. All metal hotends do not like having the molten filament sucked up into the cold zone! Also make sure the speed is set to 20m/s. If you are using the latest 1.5 version, set the prime speed to 45mm/s and suck speed to 20mm/s.

Those are the basic changes that should get you in the ballpark. Print a few of the one layer test object in my Guide and tweak until you get a great first layer. The place to start is with extrusion temperature - do the filament extrusion temperature test to find the lowest/optimal extrusion temperature. Many print quality related issues are the direct result of too high extrusion temperature. I always shudder when I read replies that say to turn up the temperature to solve a printing problem. This usually causes more (and bigger) problems. Best to start with basics, figure out what your filament temp is on your printer and go from there!



Great thanks so much. I’m right now rereading your guides! :smiley:

This would be a good place to start, right?

I would start with the single layer object. That will tell you more about how the first (and subsequent) layer goes down. This model would be good for testing first layer adhesion but you won’t get much more info out of it. It would print quickly though so might be worth a print or two.

Thanks for the Kisslicer profiles. I have always wanted to switch but so far have not had the time to do it. This gives me great start point.


After jumping around between Cura, Sl3r. Simplfy3D. I’ve come back to KissSlicer.

Ive been tweaking my KiSSlicer Settings for the past week and I’m finally happy enough to post them.

Bit different than MHackneys. But working perfectly for me right now. Works great at the slower speeds. For the higher speeds you may have to do the hardened rods and LM10UU upgrade.

Currently only printing 2.85mm ABS . If you decide to use PLA you’ll have to edit my Prefix GCode, as it is set for ABS. (You’ll need to edit the pre-heat values.) I like the Prefix GCode I have because it removes the need to do a skirt. Post just kicks the bed out for easier access.
Sain TAZ4.zip (3.05 KB)

I think I have to warm up this thread again. I thought Kisslicer is dead until mhackney wrote about his cool Cyclops nozzle :blush: I want to give it a try as I have not found my perfect slicer up to now. Slic3r is my favourite, but it has 1-2 anoing bugs…

I installed 1.5beta 2.22 today and played a little bit with it (not using it for printing up to now). To be honest, my first thought was “why they are trying to fit all 100 options inside the area of a post stamp?!” There is also no way to expand them?
But my main question before I start tuning all the values, what’s you main reason sticking with KISSlicer? At last two persons here are using it, what do you think is making it better then for example Slic3r? I would like to compare this things first to get a feeling if it’s worth to learn a new program :slight_smile:

I like KISS because I always get fantastic parts. It’s layout path is so much better than the others. I would consider myself a power user of all the slicers out there (open source and S3D) and none is as consistent as KISS. I would love it if S3D would give decent parts but warts and ooze plague them. No amount of tweaking stops it.

Here’s an example of what KISS does that no other slicer (for our printers) does - at the end of a perimeter it makes a little J movement back onto the part. That hides the end of the extrusion in the part. This eliminates any blob or imperfection on the perimeter of the part. It does other similar things on shells. I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time studying gcode generated by these slicers and KISS’ is always clean.

Looks like I am gonna hve to give KISSlicer a try the only reason I am against it is the fact that is hasn’t been updated since September 2014 based on this website: http://www.kisslicer.com/download.html

That is not accurate. There is a new forum for more recent updates, although Jonathan hasn’t released anything for a few months now.

Thanks for the correction. I will have to slice up an object in the next few days and compare, I am always open minded to trying different software

I do wish that KISS was taking it more seriously. They could be way ahead of the game by now since their core slicer is so good.

I did some prints with kisslicer the last days.

I think you are right. There are some things where I think they (or he, don’t know the team) had a good idea, but on other hand kisslicer is lacking some development on other features…
Things I have noticed compared to Slic3r:

.) Seam hiding makes the seam position smooth with the surounding perimeter, whereas it’s a little bit pronounced with slic3r prints. But beside this, the seam doesn’t look better as the slic3r one, I thought it can be better…
.) I love the layer preview with the possibility to move the “time” (nozzle travel) for each layer.
.) The print time prediction includes values for acceleration, it seems to be quite acurate.
.) Before it’s doing the solid top infill, it will do a single layer withinfill hat higher percentage. This improves the surface quality with lower top layer count.
.) Very good control to retractions, it gives you more options as slic3r with FW retract.

.) Default for support is 50% infill before real part is layed down. I think that’s a nice alternative against the solid infill used by slic3r, but I wasn’t able to see an advantage in quality.
.) Very basic cooling logic against Slic3r, but should be good enough for most cases.

.) The interface is not very comfortable, it feels like they started with a simple layout but the options increased over time and development. Manipulating a part (orientation, grouping of parts on print bed, …) is not very intuitive.
.) Seam hiding is nice to flatten out the seam, but kisslicer does a very bad job in hiding the seam position in corners. Compared to Slic3r, that means you have nice flat seams, but you can see it. Slicer has not as nice seam, but there is a good change you will never see it on most parts because they are somwhere inside a corner…
.) No bridging flow factor, no fan setting special to bridging. It might be very hard if you need nice bridges…
.) Bridging angle over gaps is not rotated to get the best result, it will do simple 45°/-45° pattern.

I will keep it for special parts, I think it will replace also the very few cases where I use Cura at the moment. But Slic3r is staying my No 1 :smiley: