Kisslicer Help - calling mhackney

Been hearing a lot about Kisslicer, so I downloaded a copy. Obviously there’s not much for TAZ printers in the default settings.

Hoping for some help with basic settings for printing ABS. A good place to start. :mrgreen:

Thanks in advance

Wow, that’s a first! (my name in a post title).

I posted a TAZ4/KITTAZ set of ini files for KISS here the other day. Start with those.

Which model TAZ do you have? What hot end and nozzle size? If you are using a Budhashnozzle, the files I posted will get you most of the settings. I only included a PLA profile but adding a profile for ABS to get you started is easy.

Did you find the ini files and install them yet?


We have a TAZ4 with standard .35mm schnozzle. Printing ABS onto PET sheets with Lulzjuice.

I will download your .ini files first thing tomorrow and try a “test” print of something fun. :smiley:

Great. So what you’ll need to do is create a new Material. Click on the Material tab and then select the PLA profile I included. Then click the Copy Material button in the lower right of the screen and give this material a new name like Basic ABS. I’d start with simply changing the temperatures and leaving everything else the same. Edit Main and Bed tmps to be what you normally print ABS. I usually print the First Layer the same as Main and use 175 for Keep-Warm for ABS.

That should get you in the ballpark with a pretty good ABS profile.

Are you printing from Kisslicer, or just creating the gcode and then using something like Pronterface to talk to printer?

KISSlicer is NOT a controller app. In the CNC toolchain it is atypical to have a single app for the entire process. The chain typically looks like:

CAD (design) -> CAM (the equivalent to slicing) -> CNC Controller

I prefer the flexibility and opportunity to use “best of breed” applications with my 3D printing toolchain. Which looks like:

CAD (Rhino for design) -> KISSslicer -> Repetier Host (my big delta) or Pronterface (several of my other printers) or Octoprint or print from SD card

The problem with all in one solutions is that they typically (at least in the early days) don’t do any one thing particularly well. I’d rather see a slicer developer focused on developing advanced slicing technologies. I have dozens of ways to add support (which I prefer to do at design time or add in explicitly and not rely on the slicer to do it) and print but I don’t have any advanced slicer that will do some of the things I have to do with post processing code I developed and have discussed on other forums. (and please don’t mention Simplify3D - it is not advanced in my opinion and is an example of doing too much and not well on any one thing).

One other thing to keep in mind, when I create gcode I typically want to save it to print multiple times in the future. I’ve observed that people who rely on the all-in-one apps to create their gcode and print it all too often don’t save the gcode and/or don’t know how to load gcode files. So each time they want to print they have to remember (or have documented) their previous slicing parameters.


Awesome. Before you answered I went ahead and saved the Kisslicer gcode for my spinning top and brought it into Pronterface. It’s printing now. Results and pics to follow.

Interesting startup routine. The nozzle lifted up a few inches from the “Pronterface home” and moved closer to the center of the build table until it reached prescribed temperature. Wasn’t expecting that.

Ah, I added that start up code! It’s in the G-code -> Prefix panel and looks like this:

G0 Z20
G0 X150 Y138
M104 S<TEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>

A delta printer homes at the top of the printer. After homing, the hotend and bed are brought up to temperature and it doesn’t move down until it is ready to print. I like this because it prevents the nozzle from melting a divot in the bed (or in the case of glass it can actually crack the glass) AND it gives you a chance to swipe the nozzle with a clean cloth to remove any oozing right before printing.

With Cartesian printers like TAZ, homing touches the nozzle to the bed - which in my case is PEI. I didn’t want to melt a divot in the PEI and why not move to the center of the build platform where most of the builds are going to start anyway? I move up 20mm to give some room for a nozzle swipe.

At the end I do this:

G0 Z20 X0 Y270
M104 S0 ; turn off hot end
M140 S0 ; turn off bed

in G-code->Postfix

to move the table forward so the part is easy to access, and the nozzle off the bed.

First prints completed. Some good stuff, and some not-so-good stuff.

Layer to layer quality looks great. There are some noticeable gaps though in areas where Kisslicer “warned” me about with the colored lines. Not sure why these areas were and issue as Slic3r printed them with perfection.

The little tips came out requiring some “doctoring” to get the right fit into the top. The taper did not come out quite right.

I’m sure these are virgin-user Kisslicer things that can be fixed with some time and experimenting.

Could not seem to find a “Brim” feature in Kisslicer either. I love me some brim. I can add brim features into stl file before slicing, but that’s one advantage Slic3r seems to have over Kisslicer.

The real test of Kisslicer for me will be printing something that requires support. Supported prints is what I hear Kisslicer excels at over Slic3r.

You are in the ballpark and now need to do some tuning to get perfect parts.

The warnings are legitimate. Slicers do attempt to fix STL model issues before printing. Slic3r actually does a very good job at this, KISS does an ok job. The best way to do it is to use an app designed to fix STL issues. The free web based netfabb ( is the best way to go. These were issues with the original model and/or conversion to a mesh and really should be addressed there. The new 1.5 beta does a better job with healing too from my experience.

The 1.5 beta versions of KISS (and it should be an official release soon) support Brim on the Support tab. You can set the Brim diameter and Brim height as well as generate a fillet - nice control over this feature and it works very well.

Tell me about the taper section - it is odd that KISS did not nail that. What is it supposed to look like?

There is a definitive “flare” where the part meets the build plate in the printed part which should not be there.

This could easily be a “newb” setting thing on my part. I did not see where I could adjust the first layer height.
Nozzle being close to build plate could be squooshing out the first layer or two a bit more than how I do things in Slic3r.

It’s a minor detail, but something I did not experience when not using Kissimple.

I’m printing the Makerbot Cement Mixer from Thingiverse now. I adjusted the “quality” setting to finest.
Looking forward to seeing how that turns out. :mrgreen:

Makerbot Cement Mixer was a FAIL.

Part broke away from build plate and made a rather significant mess. :imp:

In Kisslicer, is there a way to change the first layer height and not change all the subsequent layers after that?

I know this is available in Slic3r and it’s a wonderful option to have. Especially when using glass with the PET sheets.

Not exactly but the Bed Roughness setting on Printer->Hardware is another way to get a more smooshed 1st layer. Mouse over the field and the help tip will come up. There is also more info on it on the KISS forum and in the manual another gent is developing.


There is a Z-offset parameter that should be used to change the first layer height. See and search for “Z-offset”.

Z-offset: this is the extra Z distance that will be considered at the first layer. You may want to enter (small?) negative values to make for thinner first layers (BUT some firmware setups will not allow this). In any case, this is one of the key parameter for a good quality print.

When you load a part into Kisslicer, and then you click the option to print two or more of those parts, is there a way to change the spacing between the parts? Kisslicer defaults to placing the second part pretty close to the first. Too close in most cases to print each part individually.

I’m not sure, try right clicking on the part display there are additional options there.

But, if they are too close to print, that would be a bug. Can you post a screenshot?

First off, Thanks for developing the profile for the lulzbot. So far, I have tried Cura, Slic3r and Kiss. At this point, Kiss has become my go to slicer. However, I came across a problem with your postfix when printing multiple tall objects. The postfix causes the heat to simultaneously lower the printhead as it moves to X0 and Y270. This can cause the printhead to crash into tall printed objects. A better approach may be to move X0 and Y270, then separately move to Z20.

G0 X0 Y270
G0 Z20


Good catch Scott, thanks.

I’ll make the change to my postfix too.


I applied the change on my postfix, and it works great. I suppose if one is printing a really large item over 20mm high that is near the back, left corner of the build plate, the head could still crash into the part. Perhaps not moving the Z in such situations would be the safest approach.

Another issue I am experiencing is that after homming, the move from home to the start of the skirt will run at a really slow rate. It may take over 60 seconds for the head to make the move. Once the actual print starts, it moves at the correct speeds. Any ideas on resolving this issue?