Hi,
I just upgraded my Taz 6 to a HE 0.5 Extruder with the new firmware 2.0.9.0.8. Before the upgrade I had the original extruder that machine shipped with.
I am trying to run a print, but some of my probe points are off. I am missing it by just a couple mm.
Is there a way to manually adjust these probe points?
Thanks!
I don’t have a TAZ 6 but … in the new Universal firmware, you have to use the LCD panel to select the head you are using. Have you done that?
Thanks for the help. I did try selecting the HE 0.5 extruder from the menu, but same issue.
In what direction are the probe points off (i.e. X or Y or both)?
After selecting the proper tool head from the LCD panel, can you open the console and enter the command M206 (or M503).
I believe the response from the above should be X0 Y0 Z0. If Y is non-zero, issue a M206 Y0 followed by an M500 and then test again (G28, G29).
If Y is zero and the probe points are off in the Y direction, try moving the origin in Y (I’m guessing try positive values like Y3). Same if they are off in the X direction.
If you make changes, report back here.
When I type command M206, I get X0 Y0 Z0.
I was busy for a while, but I think I found out the bolts on the aluminum extrusion were loose. So, I am going to try to move the bed around until it is properly aligned and tighten everything. I also noticed the height of the left and right side appear to be different. So, I am going to re-calibrate the height to the table after it is zeroed.
When you square up the bed and re-righten the bed-frame bolts, make sure the glide-rods are parallel before you snug anything down. If they aren’t parallel then the bed can lift or lower as it travels (based on the rods being closer together on one end of travel vs. the opposite end.
If the bolts at the front and back of the bed-frame are loosened you can adjust the rails … and they need to be parallel. You can glide the bed (gently) forward and back with your hand BUT … it is best to do this with the printer TURNED ON.
If the printer is off and you push the bed (any axis) then the motor acts like a generator and sends electric current back into the board – which isn’t great. Better to have the printer ON, then use the LCD menu to navigate to “Motion” sub-menu and scroll down until you see “Disable Steppers”. I don’t move the bed very fast … to keep it from pushing a strong current back into the board. But you can use this to allow you to slide the bed so that the Drylin bearings that glide on the rods will hold them the correct distance apart as you snug that end of the bed … then repeat on the other end of the bed. I also use my calipers to measure the distance between the rods and make sure they really are parallel.
When you are done, just use the same “Motion” sub-menu to tell the printer to “Auto home” – that will re-enable the steppers and move the bed back to the end-stop so it reorients itself.
I had this same thing going on when I switched out to the new M175 V2. Turns out it was the wiring harness on the right side of the print head were preventing the print head from properly homing all the way to the right. Watch your printer home in the X and make sure the wires are sticking out in the way.