This what is happening. http://youtu.be/UV9bTwRjyto. The video has been slowed to 50% speed.
Assumptions & Known Settings:
Sliced by Slic3r:
Config, slightly modified draft settings from website I can post them tonight.
Extruder temp 230C
Hotbed temp 88C (I have had some success having slightly higher bed temps)
I apply ABS/Acetone slurry all the time, maybe my batch is getting old or bad.
No drafts or fans running in my room
First layer print % if I recall was 60 or 65% of solid infill speed which is I think 120? (probably slower though cannot recall).
Operation by Printrun
So the print started with the outline then the hole in the middle and moved out from the center. Thus note that the first chunk of passes around the hole are flat, fully adhered to the surface.
My bed is leveled, not as low as I would like but if I don’t have it index card thickness leveled (if I go to say thermal paper low) I get (and even now get) the extruder head rubbing atop already printed material when it is doing none-print movements.
This seems to happen only when the lines are long and straight, smaller infills do not seem to (usually) have this problem.
I am ordering a fresh set of PET sheets tonight and plan to work on upgrading the printer with some of 1010’s upgrades and first build a very elaborate enclosure for the unit.
It’s hard to see from the video. do you have a good still picture of it?
What layer thickness are you using?
are the ripples in the Z direction, or X/Y direction? Is the print width getting thicker where it ripples, or lifting off the table?
One suggestion is to fully clean your print bed with acetone every so often. that ABS slurry builds up some, if that is all you use. Sometimes, when I notice lots of slurry residue, I will only wipe it down with acetone. this re-distributes the ABS slurry some, and the print still sticks well.
I know it is a bad video, no picture but I can explain. The rectangle (shape being formed) has it’s long edge running parallel to the X-axis. Thus the fill which is rectilinear has the first layer lines going diagonally (roughly 45) to the x/y axis. To answer your questions the ripples are up and down in the z-direction.
OK I think I see now what you’re talking about. Some filament strands on the first layer are lifting up from the bed and create waves. I’ve been getting this to some extent, but nowhere as severe as in your case. My first layer usually ends up nicely flat, with no gaps or very tiny ones between the strands.
I’ve been assuming this is due to the PET tape being damaged. I’ve been too lazy to change it. I’ve had my printer for 7 months but have not printed much.
Have you printed a lot on that PET film? Has it been damaged by your clam knife?
I have printed a pretty good amount but usually my prints are not super large. Yes there are a number of nicks in the film (I placed an order yesterday for more but not progress has been made [need to contact Aleph]) The thing I don’t get it why I am getting lifting away from the middle which is the most damaged/used area. I might try cleaning the pet with acetone and then applying a little fresh but thinner slurry this evening.
I want to start on printing upgrades but I really can’t do that till I can get the best running better again.
Well now that you mention it, it’s kind of self-explanatory don’t you think? I too am getting lifting on the most damaged areas. And I don’t think cleaning it up and adding more lulzjuice is going to make much difference. If it’s damaged, plastic won’t adhere as well.
I got a spare piece of glass with my printer, I think I’ll apply new PET film on it then do the swap with the old glass.
I hope it is just that, it just does not seem to do that on parts that have a smaller runs. By that I mean parts that might be big but none of the infill lines are very long. I will see what I can do once i get new pet in.
Here is some more information of issues. I just cleaned the bed and applied a light coat of slurry (new PET is in the mail).
I printed the first layer of the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:98234 improved brackets.
I used the basic draft settings from the site plus what the author suggested, 2 perimeters and 50% infill. See attached for gcode & config.
Config: 35nzl_draftmodforbracket.ini (2.93 KB)
Gcode: Improved_Frame_Connector.stl (481 KB)
Also when the printer head is moving over already printed material in a non-print move it is clear that the tip is rubbing on the already printed material.
Here are two pictures
I had to level my bed this week and what I found is that a single thickness of paper between the bed and the nozzle is not enough for me. The nozzle was rubbing the already printed material as well. For my last print I raised the endstop a little. I don’t have a dial indicator so I don’t know by how much, but it did solve my problem, and my first layer prints much nicer.
Maybe I should have configured a flow setting somewhere rather than raise the nozzle. I have never calibrated the E steps myself, I just trusted the calibration done on the printer prior to shipping.
By E-steps I assume you mean extruder steps?
In general I am just trying to get this working enough so I can print a new carriage etc and more importantly a bunch of brackets for the enclosure I am building. (massive McMaster Carr order came in yesterday, 40’ of 20mm extrusion and a shiny new digital caliper!)
Yes. But this is something I have absolutely no experience with.
Cool! You’re using similar extrusions than the TAZ frame?
With the recent news about 3D printing ABS producing potentially harmful nano-particles, I’ve been thinking that a good idea would be to build an enclosure that would evacuate or filter the fumes.
Yes I am using identical material its from a different supplier & not black. I am building the enclosure not only for filtering reasons but also to have a heated enclosure space something currently that printers do not due as it is patented (the patent runs out in a year I think).
