Thats really not a bad result at all given how small some of those things are. Aside from a major rebuild to the Ballscrew thingy and whatnot, you could look at installing a small cooling fan on the second extruder header to give you the option of using active cooling with very small parts and bridging. Thats the one time you actually do want to use a fan with ABS, and even then it takes some tuning to make it more of a help than a hinderance. You still have a little Z wobble, but you are probably looking at either rebuilding some things, or replacing a threaded rod to get rid of that. Switching over to the thin threaded rod found on the Taz 2/3 might do the trick. You may also want to replace the bearings as they just might be warn enough at this point to allow a bit more movement there than you want depending on how heavily your AO-101 was used before you got it.
Even without the fan, enable the “auto cooling” checkbox in your Slic3r profile if you haven’t already. It’s not checked by default.
Another thing you could do to get a bit better results on the finer details, would be to swap out for a 0.35mm nozzle. The Budaschozzle 2.0 with a .35mm nozzle prints much better than the 1.1 5.0mm nozzle I had on my AO-10x initiallyActually even the 2.0 5.0mm nozzle is a major improvement. if you have one of the older style nozzles with the copper heat sync thingy, you may want to swithch to something else if you are able.