Does anyone know how to turn off the nozzle wiping function before the print starts the automatic bead leveling sequence? I’m assuming I need to change the code.
I need to turn it off because it will always grind to a halt on the first wiper and destroy the pad. There is many problems with this 4 year old machine and we can’t afford to replace it yet.
Sounds like there’s a problem with your pad, or you have the wrong toolhead for your firmware.
Without the nozzle wipe, your bed level isn’t going to be correct (usually in the too-far down direction) and instead of scraping the pad, you’re going to be scraping the bed.
Well Can I add the wipe sequence to the end of the print g-code? The tool head is correct but it jams up and will try to find the corners in the air. Its currently unusable in this state.
Wiping at the end wouldn’t help.
It still sounds like you’ve got the wrong firmware or the wrong toolhead selected in the toolhead menu on the printer.
On the printer from the idle screen, press MENU, then About Printer and report what that screen says.
Marlin 2.1.3.0.45
Taz Dual
Legacy Dual Head
And, in addition to this problem, nothing ever prints right anymore using hot end 2.
I have a TAZ Pro and a Dual extruder and I had the same issues at first. Your X-belt might be loose and since you’ve got a few years on yours, other things might have loosened up too. Nearly every screw on my TAZ 5 was loose after all these years and many were loose out of the box. Same for the TAZ Pro, some things were loose out of the box.
The X axis belt for mine was barely put on and even the dual extruder test print Lulzbot sent it was clear the axis’ and the offsets were wrong so Lulzbot clearly had no problem shipping a poorly assembled unit and put the problem in my hands like they do with many of their customers since accountability is not part of their company mantra. If you fix it yourself and let them know, they’ll give you kudos tho 
:\ With the loose X belt I spent over a month trying to correct the offsets and just leveling in general failed 2 out of 3 times EVERY TIME. Print quality kept gettin worse every other part too. Finally one day while probing I heard this crazy high pitched whine that spun down (acceleration engaged trying to move the axis but the belt slipped) and the toolhead did not move. Instantly shutdown and found the belt was just hangin there.
Tightened the X axis belt (if you have an enclosure like the TAZ Guard, you’re crawling inside to fix this and hopefully your spine doesn’t hate you already cuz it will after) and adjusted the bearings for the Z Axis since the belts were riding on the edges and now they ride in the center and I can get a perfect probe every single time IF the nozzle is clean 
FWIW I also used the OHAI assembly guides to fix these tension issues too, the same guide Lulzbot is supposed to be using.
I do clean my nozzle manually since I hate the wiper pads and they end up putting fuzz on my perfectly clean nozzle and ruin the probing probably 7 times out 10 so I disabled the wipe bit G12 command and I changed my Gcode that sets for wipe temps to probe temps instead so it doesn’t heat up unnecessarily. Switching out the white dry eraser wiper pads with the red 3M scour pads I think might be a good idea and a suggestion from the Lulzbot support crew but coming from the TAZ 5 and manually cleaning the nozzle, I’m just used to it. The new coatings on the nozzles makes the cleaning easier too.
After all this, the Z-offset now remains consistent however prior the Z-offset on a single or dual toolhead would always change each level (loose belt equals loose toolhead) and this is why the probing now succeeds all the time.
I printed some PVA supports (2nd extruder) with ABS and it did seem like the X offset for the duals is now very wrong BUT chances are NOW with a properly tightened X axis belt, I can set the X offset and have it remain consistent as well.
After all that crap and 2 months of leveling nightmares the TAZ Pro now prints like… a PRO
I just completed my OpenRailz on my TAZ 5 and it blows the Pro out of the water by speed and quality. 40mm/s w/ ABS is about the best I can get w/ the TAZ Pro now with excellent quality. I just laid down a couple parts on the OpenRailz TAZ 5 and I’m printing equal quality to the Pro at 80mm/s with no special adjustments.