Upgraded to TAZ 5 now print issues

General LulzBot TAZ
1

So posting here hoping I can get some ideas on how to solve my issue. Originally a TAZ 4 - hot end died so I picked up the new one. Flashed the firmware, little fan humming away, everything heats up…but I can’t get it to stop doing this:

http://i.imgur.com/b3JGCSY.jpg

So first please forgive the bubbles in the PET tape; It’s not normally like that, a bit frustrated (been dealing with this for the last few weeks) and I didn’t feel like messing with it ATM. But the result is the same PET tape or no PET tape. Printing in both ABS and PLA. All the same mess. It’s like the extruder is pushing material too slowly during infill. I took my filament over to a friend’s house to try on his TAZ 5 and it worked just fine.

Additionally, when I raise the extruder and just extrude x amount of filament it comes out without issue. And it seems to print the borders of the print just fine, but is having the problem on the infill.

Customer service, who are normally great, haven’t been much help in this. So I’m hoping I can get some ideas here.

2

What happens when you try to push the filament through the nozzle with the idler unlatched and by hand, does it bind as you push it in?

If it’s binding or it’s not flowing, those are the first thing to address. Align your mount plate and extruder and clear a clog if need be.

If it’s flowing, then test the extruder by running this to extrude filament for 3 minutes.

G92 E0
G1 E300 F100
G92 E0

Another possibility is swell in the heatsink so look at the end of the filament when you pull it out to see if it looks like it might be binding against the walls of the extruder.

3

Thanks for the reply Anonymouse!!

OK at first it was not extruding at that speed - just chewed the plastic. I slowed it down, to half the speed, let it run - it seemed to do ok. Then tried it after at the speed you suggested and it pumped it out with no problem. I’ll need to try a print later tonight.

Thanks

4

One other thing is the I noticed the ideler bearing (that pushes the filament against the hobbed bolt) needs to be much tighter with the hexagon hotend than it did with the Buda.