Looking for help. Z Axis won’t move. Turn down your speakers.
https://youtu.be/AVbgyb2La2E
Take the red shipping clips off the smooth rods. Then go back and actually read the quick start guide before you attempt anything else. This probably screwed your alignment and may have also broken the z motor couples or damaged the motors
Wow. Just. Wow. I’m not gonna lie, that’s embarrassing and one of the top five dumbest things I’ve done.
The good news is things like that are how you learn about 3d printer design and repair. Its not the end of the world and you can certainly recover from it. There are more expensive parts you could have broken. If you find you do have a broken part , https://itworks3d.com/store/ probably has an inexpensive replacement if the lulzbot store doesn’t carry them.
It appears everything works fine. However the extruder rods sit a few mm higher on the left Z-axis adjuster screw now than the right, which doesn’t allow the extruder to come close enough to the plate.
The fix for that is to unplug the taz and then unplug the higher sidea motor and turn it manually using something as a feeler gauge to set both sides to the same height. You will want to measure from the bottom of each leadscrew nut to the top of the lower z bearing on both sides and make sure that distance is the same. Then level the bed with the bed level scripts.
I also use the output of the bed level scripts to help fine tune my left/right z-axis rods.
When it touches the 4 corners during leveling, compare the z-axis numbers for the 2 on the left side to the 2 on the right side. Mine had a difference of almost 2mm! Sure the script can compensate as it’s printing, but it’s working the z-axis the entire time to do that. I’d rather have things as close to level as possible so it doesn’t have to.
So my right side was higher according to the numbers. I basically did as Piercet suggests and shut the machine off, manually turn the right z-axis counter clockwise to lower it a bit. Then did the bed level process again to see how close it was. I repeated that 2 more times until the right and left sides are now within .1mm of each other. Much better.
Just a clarification, he has a Taz 5 in the video, no corner leveling. You can use a similar method with feeler gauges, but what PDXSteve describes would work on a Mini or a Taz 6.
It is advised to level the Z rods to the lower frame(aka -The aluminum bed plate) as that is what the print table sits on. So bottom of the Z rod to the top of the bed plate on that side of the printer, or at least that is what I do leveling printer bed. 
Arg, sorry I missed that. I watched the video the other day and was just replying to replies since and I forgot it was a T5. My bad.