where are the hexagon nozzles???

Nothing in the lulzbot store…

anyone know of any 3rd party manufacturers? looking to keep some extras and different sizes on hand.

I just go to Matterhackers and get some of the E3D nozzles which also fit the hexagon. They just have a longer threaded section, but the same thread size. YMMV.

Based on my personal experience, I would recommend going with the E3D nozzles. They are long enough to tighten against the Hexagon heat brake and avoid all the crazy sealer and torquing requirements (not to mention nozzle failure) of the shorter Hexagon nozzle. In my experience on multiple printers, the E3D nozzles are as good or better in every way. They even stay cleaner than the stock nozzle on the Mini. Less problems all around.

If you are buying multiple nozzles, it will probably be less expensive to buy from http://www.filastruder.com/. I have had great customer service there.

do the E3D nozzles stick out more?

Based on the prints online, it looks like they stick out 0.5mm more, which should be perfectly fine.

Mine stick out a little more, but not enough to be a worry. The nozzle portion itself is actually shorter though, so you have abit more thread but less nozzle sticking down?

They do stick out more. On the auto level machines (mini and Taz 6), the difference is compensated for during calibration. On older manual machines, it is simply a quick Z end stop adjustment. If you are still running the flip down switch based bed level, I suppose you will need to make some offset adjustments.

Yea you do need to adjust your Z height a little but not a lot.

A company in the UK called ooznest sells all parts of the hexagon including the .5mm and .35mm nozzles.

You can get the same type of nozzles in different diameters on ebay too.

But as above the E3D nozzles are better and they also make hardened steel nozzles.

Here you go https://itworks3d.com/product/nozzle-hexagon-hotend/
These are the OE LulzBot Reprap Discount nozzles. We “import” them in quantity to spread out the $20 RRD shipping expenses.

LulzBot doesn’t stock them because changing nozzles voids the LulzBot warranty.

How does changing a known wear item void a warranty?

They don’t trust us to properly tighten them. I was told this on the phone when I tried to buy some. They probably made the decision after having complaints of leakage or broken parts from people doing it wrong.

I have moved to the E3Dv6 nozzles myself.

My personal opinion is that the decision to tighten the shoulder of the hexagon nozzle against the face of the heater block is a poor design. I have had three nozzles fracture due to the stresses created when the heater block expands. Since moving to E3D nozzles that are longer and tighten against the heat brake instead of the heater block, I have had no further failures over thousands of hours of printing across four machines.

Changing a nozzle does not void the entire machine warranty. I had a Rambo fail under warranty. I sent the entire printer back to Lulzbot for repair with a non-standard nozzle installed. They returned the printer with a factory installed stock nozzle. No problems. I’m not sure why they changed the nozzle but, they did. I suspect the warranty would be voided on the hotend if the user directly damaged the unit attempting to modify it or repair it. That has been my experience anyway.

This is correct, it only voids the tool head’s warranty (or maybe just the hot end, dunno)
The bigger issue is people shorting resistor and thermistor wires to the heater block with the printer on, blowing RAMBo fuses, or the RAMBo. This definitely happens based on the number of refurbished RAMBos we sell.

We need an insulating silicone boot for the hexagon heater block. That would improve heat times, get rid of the overlooking nozzle fan issue, and prevent shorting. One for the e3dv6 as well. Anyone know anything about high temperature silicone casting?

Interesting idea. I have made my share of silicone molds (not too difficult) and I did find some silicone molding compound that’s good for 593c (it’s used for casting metal jewelry parts).

Would just have to make a 2 part outer mold then be very sure to coat it with mold release then pour in the high temp stuff. it might work.

I’ll make some mold STL’s if you feel like trying it out. Also if they turn out good i’d be interested in either casting some or buying a set. How much is that high temp silicone?

I have experience casting high-temp silicone RTV and making molds. I’d be happy to make one for the AO modified Hexagon hotend w/ level sensor.

I don’t have access to an E3D-V6 nozzle based extruder. Does anyone have a dead one I can use for measurement, or a link to precise measurements of an assembled E3D-V6 nozzle?


I can get those measurements for you when I get home tonight.



I see the hotend but no nozzles sold separately on that page