ABS delamination lower layers

So, I was wondering why the lower layers delaminated and the upper layers seem fine.

Taz 3
Hatchbox 3mm ABS
230C nozzle / fan OFF
90C bed
.3 layer height

The small herringbone printed just fine, same settings. Bed was leveled hot before the print.

Try pushing the nozzle temperature up to 235. You can’t safely go much higher than that on a buddaschnozzle equipped Taz 3. Also raise the bed temperature to 100. It looks like you got a bit of corner lifting on one side, minor, but that might have contributed.

What kind of filliament are you running? is that lulzbot villiage plastic ABS? or something else?

It’s Hatchbox 3mm ABS. The whole thing was actually pretty stuck to the bed. That corner might have been me trying to pry it off. I’m thinking about upgrading to the hex hot end, would I need to change anything in the firmware?

You would have to change several things in firmware

So would it be better to just upgrade the Z axis, and hot end and upgrade to the 5 firmware and start tuning from there? Also I think Ive figured out whats going on… When doing an infill, it seems like it extrudes too much on one side, causing the raised layer look (not really delaminated in that sense…) I think it has something to do with retraction. Not really sure where to start… It seems that the extra ooze trades back and forth depending on which way the fill is going back and forth… It seems to happen more on long distance infills.

One of the big things upgrading to the Taz 5 leadscrews gives you is less layer separation. I definitly would reccommend going that route, but I also reccommend that people take their printers apart and put them back together differently on a regular basis, so I might not be the best person to ask that heh.

Check your belt tension (probably the X belt) and make sure the motor pulley setscrews are down and tight. If it’s only happening on a long distance travel, it could be a slightly loose belt or pully causing a very small layer shift. Those wouldn’t show up on a slower perimiter infil, which is what the rest of the duct is necessarily.

Sorry, just to clarify, what do you mean less layer separation? Also, to clarify, if I upgraded the leadscrew as well as the hot end, I can just simply upgrade to the Taz 5 firmware and it would just be a matter of “tuning” it to my preferences? Another option is, if I just upgraded the leadscrew but not the hot end, I would upgrade to the Taz 4 firmware? and upgrade to the 5 when I put the hot end in? Do I understand that correctly?

The leadscrews tend to keep the nozzle in the correct Z plane better than the threaded rods did. So there is less chance the nozzle can move further away from the surface it is trying to print to. the nozzle being in the correct plane minimizes the chance the layer won’t stick, causing it to lift away and separate.

Yes, you could go to Taz 4 spec with the leadscrew upgrades and no hot end, that’s actually exactly what I did the first time, and if you have a working hotend and no need to print higher temperatures, your printer will be fine like that. The hexagon is an improvement over the buddaschozzle though in terms of quality and print speed, so it is worth going to that as well at some point.