Did you look at the pictures in the thingiverse page already? I am working on better pictures and instructions but other things have been higher priority.
I have but my biggest issue is all the connections with the Gantry mounting plate. Do the bottom wheels connect to the plate? What size screws for the wheel connection? I see spacers next to the backplate but are they also on the other side too? Do you put all the wheels on first then attach the gantry plate to the carriage adapter or slide the screws in then attach to the carriage adapter then put the wheels on?
Edit: I see the 30mm screws go from the back of the gantry plate and from the top there is eccentric spacer, then I’m assuming a washer, then the wheel, then another washer, then back plate, then nut. That is for the 2 top wheels. The middle is 35mm screw through the back of the gantry plate, then eccentric spacer (can a regular spacer be used?), then 9mm spacer (?), then 6mm spacer (?), then back plate, then nut.
Is the bottom the same as the top?
I think I have figured it out by looking at the picture on page 27 but looks like I need to change from the socket type screw to the flat head. Other than that does it look right?
Yup, you’ve got it set up correctly there. The flat head style do definitly fit better, though you can optionally just bore the holes out in the backplate and it still mainly clears
I have done everything you have suggested to do. (4 times)The right side z-screw keeps going out of level. I will start a print and by the end it’s 3 to 4 mm lower on the right side than the left. When I get it level and then run it all the way up and back down it stays level. Its seems to be only when I print,it goes out of level. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Check the motor couple setscrews top and bottom. Its possible they coincidentally loosened when the rail went in. Other than that, if its square to the endplates and level, you shouldn’t see any binding. I only see binding if one of the endcaps are crooked, the rail is crooked, the starting heights are off and binding, or the rail endcaps are too far in or out and binding the leadscrew. If you tried all the anti leadscrew binding techniques its something else.
Chase, I got the same problem as you. I can loosen all screws and it works but tightening after going up and down a few times I’m right back where I started from.
Can you post some pictures of both ends of the leadscrew and the rail assembly? Maybe I can see something off.
I have got mine all apart doing the y axis upgrade, but while I was at it I took the x axis apart and redone it. I did notice that when it was together working and I would adjust the right lead screw that it was not a smooth as the left. I got it back together and measure with the calipers to make sure they where even. I had to move the right on alittle and it moved much smoother now (just like the left one) which wasn’t the case before. I haven’t tried it with it hooked up yet, but I can tell something was bound up just enough to off set it. I will have it back together working tomarrow and will let you guys know if it’s fixed…
Mines working!!! I think it was that I didn’t unscrew the bolts on the belt pulley after I got the belt tight! I don’t think it would let it settle in place.
I still have a few Clear Acrylic Backplates available if anyone needs one.
One question to the more experienced ones using Openrails:
How tight do you want the weels against the rail? I set mine to the smallest possible amount where I can’t feel play in the axis.
I’m still fighting with ringing during acceleration after sharp corners…
I did the same, just tight enough to remove any wiggle when I twisted the bed or extruder by hand. Hundreds of print hours later… not one adjustment has been necessary. Are you seeing the ringing in X or Y?
I have it in both axis, only the visibility changes between colors. I printed a lot of test pieces with different perimeter speeds, acceleration settings and part orientation.
It’s corner ringing, it’s always happening at acceleration after a corner.
.) Acceleration: has an influence, but even at 500mm/s² it’s there.
.) Speed: No feelable, minor visible ringing at 20mm/s, cleary visible and feelable at 40-80mm/s with a maximum at 60mm/s. At 120mm/s ringing is nearly gone as it was at 20mm/s. I guess it’s due to Marlin switching from single step to 2steps / loop at about 100mm/s.
Printing perimeters at 20mm/s is no solution, nor printing at 120mm/s as it has other drawbacks as I’m limitied to 0,1mm layer height to keep extruder flow rate in an acceptable limit which increases print time a lot.
The x and y axis mod was an improvement to this, but I’m still not happy with it…
Edit: I even tried lowering the current for the X and Y steppers. It’s hard to say, but I think it had a minor positive effect. But nothing significant. My last idea would be to try one of this astrosyn like dampers. It has to be something with specific frequencies, but I found nothing about dampers related to ringing, only related to noise so I’m not too enthusiastic…
If you have a lot of hours on your printer, you might try swapping in a new motor on one of the axis. I had one motor fail in a way that it started running very roughly, inducing really bad rippling in my prints. Your motors could be getting to that point and exhibiting the problem during acceleration.
It’s only about 3/4 year old…?
As another test, I modified my Marlin so that it will always do double steps even when I print at lower speeds. Let’s see what happens…
Here is my small test part. Maybe someone could print one and post pictures with a light source so that ripples are visible if there are any?
Prefered settings: 0.2mm layer height, 60mm/s perimeter speed.
Speed test_Details.rar (184 KB)
I am planning to build this but confuse about the part listed here
Backplate
One 35mm long M5 Flat head bolt and Nut (for lower middle Carriage hole )
One 1/4" bolt that fits the larger eccentric holes, also about 35mm long and nut (for top backplate hole)
Spacers and washers to space out middle section of backplate. i ended up using 2x 6mm spacers, a 9mm spacer and a bunch of washers on the top and bottom. this could probably be a printed part. The one at the top is the critical one.
Belt mount posts are made of:
2x 1/8" bolt, 1 inch or so long
4x 1/8" nuts
2x 1/8" threaded plastic spacers wide enough to hold a bolt
2x large-ish washers bigger than the plastic spacers to keep the bolt slipping off the end
which is the right one for the 1/4" bolt?
and also the 1/8" bolt?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=12hwifq
Also what size is for 1/8" threaded plastic spacers wide enough to hold a bolt? does it have to be made from plastic?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-spacers/=12hwrst
the 1/4" bolt is basically just the structural piece that holds the top of the backplate to the rest of the carriage. Any bolt that will fit the hole and is long enough will work. A 1/4" bolt should be a good fit for the hole though. The spacers can be made out of anything. Plastic, washers, metal, etc. Mine happen to be a mix of plastic spacers and metal washers. I keep meaning to design a 3d printable spacer for that.
The other bolts are the ones the X belt anchors to. I used 1/8" bolts with threaded plastic spacers, but again you could use pretty much any bolt that will fit in the holes. I know some people using the plastic backplate have used M3 heat set inserts and M3 bolts. Really whatever you have available in your hardware box will work. Your goal for that part of the backplate is basically a metal peg you can anchor the belt to. There are some good pictures of the assembly in the thingiverse page.
There is a small triangle at the back of the top hole in the Taz_OpenRail_Xmotor_Mount_lid_2_0_a part. Is it intentional?
It’s probably a leftover internal structure piece from when that was reworked from version 1. I’ll make a fixed one here in a bit. it doesn’t show up in Slic3r though.