Ok, cool I’ll add that to the document. I have a set here that you sent me that I can use for pictures too!
Unrelated, would anyone be interested in an instructions guide on the “blinky light box of doom” on the front of my Y axis? It’s alot of wiring and firmware coding to get that working, but if there is interest I’ll write it up.
Unrelated, would anyone be interested in an instructions guide on the “blinky light box of doom” on the front of my Y axis? It’s alot of wiring and firmware coding to get that working, but if there is interest I’ll write it up.
Yeah, I’m interested.
I have some addressable LED’s left over from an Ambilight project, and have been trying to think of something to do with them.
I have to check, but I think they’re 2812’s like you had used.
Alright, I’ll probably base the instructions off the controller package availabel here since it’s nearly identical to what I have MTW3D.com It will probably be a bit after the Z axis instructions get done. Once those are all done I can get back to making new thingies
Did anyone ever machine aluminum front and back plates for this? I’d be interested in getting a set for a TAZ6 (which ends up being 2 TAZ5 motor plates if I’m not mistaken).
Havent had a chance to do this yet, just got a taz 3 a week ago, need to bring it up to taz 5 specs. But i was thinking, how hard would it be to replace the belt with a lead screw? Looks like the custom y plate would need a bigger hole for the stepper shaft, a new mounts of the lead screw for the front and rear, the the lead screw nut mount to the bed. Guess a change to the firmware to adjust the number of steps.
Im new to this, but from the little bit of research and reading i have done, it seems like lead screws or ball screws are the way to go.
Again i think piercet has done a great job here, just thinking out loud.
Leadscrews on x or y are possible, but there are some considerations. Belts are inherently fast, Leadscrews are inherently positionally accurate but Leadscrews are generally not fast. There are Leadscrews known as fast multistart Leadscrews that can get near belt speeds, but they are expensive and they tend to put a lot of wear on the Leadscrews nut. You would need to ideally accomidate a fixed / floating style mount, which would mean extending one end of the y bed frame, as well as accounting for heat expansion, which belts are less subject to.
You can see one example of how it can be done if you look up the ill fated alluminautis (so?) project. That failed more from management issues with that company rather than technical issues with the concept.
The thingiverse repositories have the latest parts, the PDF document shows a combination of the main setup, and the optional pieces, including the Y axis belt tensioner, the nozzle wiper retrofit and I can’t remenber if I have the cable guard there as well.
Switching over a Taz 6 and I came across one of two things.
1 - On the endplates, qty-2 (Taz_V4_or_5_ONLY_Openbuild_Y_Endplate_Reinforcement_Motor_3_0_E.stl) for the Taz 6, the idler and motor mounts are offset the wrong way (to the right). I see you do this for the optional adjustable idler on the 3,4,5…but this doesn’t work on the Taz 6.
2 - You intentionally offset the idler and motor to the right, leaving the stock belt mount on the bed offset left (stock position) creating an different belt path geometry from stock.
I’m kind of leaning on you had a 50/50 chance on #1 and it was the wrong one.