Best practices from experienced lulzbot users question

hi everyone, thank you.
im a schoolteacher and over the summer they upgraded our original taz 6 with the new 1.75mm v2 toolhead, all is good. however, they also removed my wham bam setup i had there, and replaced it with the (i assume) new glass square borcellium… or something heated plate…
i did a benchy, its not adhering to this surface… of course its got the new firmware, new cura, correct taz6-v2 1.75mm toolhead, etc…
its just those initial layers are sticking, then… into the benchy it loses its base adhesion grip and moves w/nozzle, etc…
i dont wanna ruin the new plate with steel wool, or glue stick… yet… until i asked ya’ll… who use this often!
should i use aquanet, magicgoo, gluestick? put my wham bam back on…?

What type of filament?

Clean the bed surface. Oils, dust could be causing the filament to adhere poorly. Isopropyl alcohol, dishwashing liquid and acetone are common products to remove dirt and oils from the bed.

You could try adjusting the initial nozzle height in your gcode start script. But the better method would be to tune the printer’s initial nozzle height. An easy check is to make sure the nozzle and leveling discs are clean and making direct contact… sometimes a layer of filament can be deposited on the discs causing the wrong initial nozzle height.

A PEI bed could help wi5 many filaments. Check if the glass bed has a layer of yellow-ish plastiic.Tthat would be the PEI, in which case try cleaning and possibly scuffing up the surface with a super-fine grit sandpaper or just a magic eraser pad.

If there is no PEI layer, try convincing the school to add a generic flexible magnetic PEI sheet or the official magnetic sheet from Lulzbot. The latter is better quality, but the generic solutions as usually between $50-$120.

Hope this helps.

thanks you, ill take a look today at details…
its brand new heated glass bed apparently, and they removed my wham bam flex surface id installed on old heated bed!

filament is pla, std 3d pla, i forget the brand.

this is the build plate

That looks to me like a stock build plate with a PEI surface. My guess is that you just need to dial in your Z-offset.

What is the Z-offset now (M851)? Try -1.2 as a starting place.

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thanks, ill do that monday and let you know.
yes, i had the wham bam on this, then over the summer they changed to v2 m1.75 toolhead and changed the plate to this glass type surface…
and ill confirm the m851 settings…
also, just fyi, im very used to the duet board web interface ,and the console commands etc…
on the taz im using the cura, can i enter the m851 in cura, i guess id goto ‘monitor’ tab, and not the ‘prepare’ … or do i need to use the new firmware on the led contral panel on the taz6?

Use the Monitor, Manual control section. Use the Console button. You may need to check the debug box (not sure what its exact name is, my TAZ 6 is connected via OctoPi / OctoPrint).

ahhh, so octipi is a printer web interface, id always thought it was the raspberry pi softwar ethat connects and does time lapse videos!

OctoPi is the operating system for the Raspberry Pi that bundles OctoPrint (and a few other applications like code for cameras and timelapses). OctoPrint is an application written in Python 3 that provides a web based interface to a 3D printer connected via USB.

The biggest advantage to this configuration is that 3D print times are often hours long. Operating systems like Windows will do other things in the background and can, in some circumstances, cause a print to fail.

The Raspberry Pi does almost nothing else during a 3D print and I can use my Windows desktop for other things (like modeling and slicing my next 3D print). I can check on the print from my Windows desktop, my cell phone, my iPad, or almost any other computer in the house. With some additional software to manage security, I can even monitor the print from anywhere on the internet.

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im still getting used to the taz6 overall.
i use a seemecnc artemis at home here, for years now, and it has the duet wifi controller board, so i just upload jobs to it, wifi, and it handles the prints, but i can control using the duet web interface…
so many different options out there, and ive used simplify3d as a slicer for years now, love it, but they havent upgraded it in 2 + years now…
are there and preconfig’d taz6 1.75 v2 profiles to try with prusaslicer? or is it pretty much best to stick with the lulzbot licensed cure le…?
thanks again for your help and time!

I primarily use CuraLE 3.6.37 and I own Simplify3D so that gets some use. I also use Ultimaker Cura 5.1 and various other free slicers including PrusaSlicer (or SuperSlicer) depending on the project.

CuraLE has profiles (and the start and end gcode) which I transfer to the other slicers as needed.

As stated above, it is likely that when your machine got reflashed the Z-Offset was lost and has reverted to some kind of default. As stated above, -1.20 is a decent place to start, but just go look at what it is and make it a little closer to the build plate (a more negative number), and go in 0.05mm increments. So for example, if the current setting is -1.20mm, then make it -1.25mm and try your benchy again. I am assuming you have a PEI surface over your new glass and that you are heating your bed to 60°C for PLA.

Thanks, yes that’s what im doing now, using the z-offset to dial in the right setting for a good 1st layer, not too tight, not too lose.


I’d ask for the Wham Bam surface to come back! I really love their products.

I manage 3D printers at a research lab at a state university. I have several undergraduate students working for me. I am curious what sort of safety devices your school is using on the printer(s)?

We had an incident with a machine (not Lulzbot) that caused a very expensive fire. We now have the printers in fireproof enclosures that have air filtration, fire suppression devices and lots of sensors and cameras for remote monitoring.

We have the world’s largest polymer printer here so it was educational to learn about VOCs, Nanoparticles and the nasty things printers off gas. The research on how this affects humans is rather shocking. As such, we’ve required anyone near a printer in operation to be in masks or respirator like devices.

I don’t say this to scare you but certainly make you aware of the things we learned the hard way.

There is also 3D Printing guidelines from the CDC, EPA and countless other agencies.

It’s lead me to upgrade my home printers to be in enclosures, fume extractors and the like. I don’t want to get black lung from my love of 3D printing!

Print safe!

thanks, and yes its crazy, we have no safety precautions… the entire 3d print course was my idea… 6 yrs ago i built a seemecnc h2 delta at home, loved it, and found a decent rtp printer on an edu site, it was the lulzbot taz6, so i sent the link to my principal, then 2 years later, she says, look what we got! just what you wanted to try this 3d printing toy stuff!.. exciting yes… but it was the printer from 2 yrs ago… at that point… anyway… the safety we use is me watching the printer whenever its working, which isnt much… but sometime i do leave a print going when i leave… but luckily… no errors…
were a 1 classroom, ive maybe 10 students, and i hadle the cura part, i want them to learn tinkercad, and those that like it, lets do cura, and then maybe i show them to load/unload, prepare the taz6
do you have any good links to a secity casing for the taz, fire enclosure ,etc…?

I’d look at these

Its an investment but protecting you and your students will make you risk management department happy.