Budasnozzle clogged. How do I unclog it?

I am a new 3d printer user. I have a stock Taz 3 with a budasnozzle 2.0 . I struggled some to level the bed but eventually got it right. I printed my test octopus using PLA (Jet 3 MM natural) and all went well. During my second print the extruder clogged. I was out of time so I turned off the unit. I wish I had tried to extract the filament right then but I did not. Much later I tried opening the feeder and pulling the filament out with the hot end at temp but it was well stuck. The hobbed bolt had worn a nice notch as expected. Manually feeding and pulling back the filament were not working. I took the hot end off the feed mechanism and tried to pull out the filament and tried increasing the temp a little at a time without luck. The filament eventually broke off level with the aluminum plate. I tried forcing fresh filament in, no luck.

I assume I have to disassemble the nozzle to clean it out but I cannot find any guidance on how to do it. I am open to suggestions on how to proceed and if there is a link that might help, please let me know.

My first thought is to unscrew the nozzle from the hot end and see what I find. I assumed I could probably heat it up and feed new filament through it with the nozzle off. Wille the nozzle come off the extruder while both are cold and it is in this clogged state? Should I heat it up? Past 180c?

I red about people soaking ABS clogged extruder parts in acetone. I see no equivalent solvent for PLA. Does acetone work on PLA like it does on ABS?

After much reading I ordered some ABS from Lulzbot. I thought PLA was the more noob friendly filament type but it appears the taz 3 is optimized for ABS as delivered. I may try the “PLA mod fan” approach Lulzbot support sent me if I ever get this working again to print the duct and the PLA reel sitting there makes me adventurous (or cheap). I will measure it and set the diameter in the SW.

Thanks all,
Tim

Material doesn’t really matter. If you get it hot enough the extruder will push it through the nozzle. If PLA is stuck heat up the nozzle above 185C and take a small piece of Radio Shack magnet wire and use it to clean the nozzle. I had the same thing happen to mine and you just need to get that pellet of PLA out of the nozzle. If you have a really small drill bit you can use that too. The drill bit should be smaller than the nozzle diameter.

What I did before I got magnet wire and drill bits was to keep increasing the nozzle temps until the filament would extrude through the nozzle. As I recall once the nozzle temp got around 200C the PLA would flow.

We recommend using the following method to remove the hot end nozzle, found in the User Manual in section 8.2 on page 144 here: http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/3.0/documentation/current/LulzBot_TAZ_3.0-User_Manual-ebook.pdf. The text is included below:

In most cases the nozzle is best changed when the hot end is slightly
warm. NEVER try to remove the nozzle when the hot end is at extrusion
temperature. At higher temperatures the threaded extension expands in
the nozzle causing the nozzle to bind if turned. Heat the hot end to
160C.

This will soften the plastic inside the hot end and allow the nozzle to be
loosened o the threaded extension. Power o the printer and continue
unscrewing the nozzle once cooler. Take care when removing the nozzle
while the hot end is hot. Wear leather gloves or use a towel to turn the
nozzle o of the hot end.

To change the nozzle you will need an 18mm and 13mm wrench. Slide
the 18mm wrench onto the rectangular aluminum heater block away from
the heater resistor and thermistor wires.

Using the 13mm wrench turn the nozzle counter clock-wise. Make sure
the nozzle is turning o of the threaded aluminum extension that runs up
through the heater block. Do not allow the heater block to turn. This can
put strain on and possibly damage the wiring.

Once you have removed the nozzle you can then thread on the other
nozzle size you would like to use. Make sure the nozzle has threaded correctly
onto the threaded extension before trying to turn it with the wrench. Turn
the nozzle clock-wise until it tightens against the heater block

After installing the new nozzle you may need to adjust your Z home
trigger setting before printing again. Refer to the Printing Your First Print
section (page 47) for calibrating the Z home trigger setting.
If you will be changing nozzles frequently we suggest reapplying a small
amount of high temperate anti-seize to the inside threads of the nozzles.
You will need an anti-seize capable of temperature of at least
250C.

I have the TAZ4. It’s totally clogged, I’ve already disassembled the hot end, but it seems that the trouble is between the entrance of the material before the hot zone.

How can I fix it? It’s not letting in pass any wire or material, not even manually.

There are a couple videos showing the internal structure of the buddaschnozzle here:
http://www.youtube.com/user/LulzBotVideo/videos
The design diagrams are here: http://download.lulzbot.com/Budaschnozzle/v2.0/drawings/
Basically if you can’t get to wherever it is clogged, you haven’t taken it apart far enough. You may have melted the peek isolator closed, in which case the video on how to remove the peek liner might be useful.