What mounting plate are you using for mating the E3d with the extruder? It looks sorta like one I designed, but I can’t remember if I put that one up on here somewhere or not. I’ve moved a bit away from using it as it seems to eventually loosen up, which can be frustrating in dual-extruder land. Having a millimeter or so of jitter makes it tough to align the print heads nicely.
I actually printed up one of the hexagon extruders, and the E3D’s fit nicely (though snugly!) into them. Not sure if the metal brace-plate that comes with the hexagon hotend will work, however (I don’t have one to test with). I used a plate I found on thingiverse, and then had to shave down a touch with an exacto.
At some point I’m planning to do an insane move to an E3D Chimera + two Volcano nozzles, and probably an HPX2-MAX extruder setup (single motor, dual extruder, uses a servo to switch ‘tools’). I’ll also have to move to 1.75mm filament to use the Chimeras, so I’ll be keeping my old Lulz-duallie setup intact. My hope is that I’ll have a lighter X-carriage, a much easier time aligning (and keeping alignment) between the two nozzles, and that the 1.75mm Volcano can keep filament hotter at high speeds. The 3mm Volcano is definitely faster than anything else, almost purely because I can print with 1mm layer height. But trying to run it at anything more than about 40mm/s and it’ll underextrude - it just can’t seem to heat that much filament that fast.
Alright, enough of my fevered ranting! Good job with the install, @Brew4You! I don’t know if you’ll have to tweak your firmware (You can go much, much hotter than the Buda nozzles, but the Hexagons should be similar), let me know if you do - there’s some tricks to it coming from the Buda.
(For others, if it hasn’t been mentioned before: The Budaschnozzles in the TAZ4 have a ‘bang bang’ max PWM value set to something like 70 - that can go all the way up to 255 (250-245 if you want to play it safe) with the 24v heater elements in the E3D. Leaving it set to 70 will make your E3D take FOREVER to heat up. PID only takes over temperature control when the temp reaches a window near the set temperature, and before that it uses bang-bang. Basically, it just uses a constant PWM ‘voltage’ until it reaches 16-20 degrees off from the set temp. At a PWM value of 70, you’re only putting about 6.5 volts into your 24v heater cartridge!)