I decided to write down here the steps I took to complete an upgrade of the TAZ4 to a E3D v6 24V hot end. As it seemed I had to look around to a few different places to find all the details. Also included are some changes to Marlin for the auto extruder fan to work properly.
Let’s start, so you got your new E3D v6 hot end and it is the 24V one. BTW this guide is for the direct version.
Assemble the hot end following these instructions http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly
Print this mount here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:905350, much better than the original design by chipchap420, although credits to him for coming with the original idea! E3D v6 fits perfectly on this mount and you don’t have to use tape or other stuff to keep it from moving as in other solutions. You will need 2x M3 20mm screws and 2x M3 nuts.
I took the easy path and connected the extruder fan together with the fan that TAZ 4 already had for cooling the filament. Then connected the thermistor and heat cartridge to a 4 pin header, the 2 cables of the thermistor next to each other and the 2 cables of the heat cartridge next to them, following basically how Budaschnozzle is connected. Just be careful to connect them correctly back to where the Budaschnozzle was connected.
BEFORE flashing the TAZ remember to note the steps configuration. Follow the first set of instructions from here: link https://www.lulzbot.com/support/firmware-flashing-through-cura
the simple part is downloading the Marlin source code from here: https://www.lulzbot.com/support/downloads
then search on configuration.h file and change the following:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 7
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
#define BANG_MAX 70 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current #define PID_MAX 74 // limits current to nozzle while PID is active
#define BANG_MAX 150 #define PID_MAX 155
Now if you want you can do the following changes in order to have the fans working automatically whenever the nozzle temperature goes above 40.
#define EXTRUDER_FAN_SETUP 4
and a few lines below check that the EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN is set to the correct FAN_PIN (EX_FAN_0 by default which also equals FAN_PIN which is actually 8 for Motherboard = 301)
Now this should be enough since the fans should be turned on from within the temperature.cpp, which they do but almost instantly the shuts off from the planner.cpp as I found out after some debugging.
So to workaround this I added the following:
#if defined(EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN) && EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN > -1 if (current_temperature > EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE) analogWrite(EX_FAN_0,255); #else analogWrite(EX_FAN_0,tail_fan_speed); #endif
at line 508
Now you are ready to flash TAZ!
5. PID Autotune
Connect using pronterface and send the command
M303 E0 S200 C8
At the end it will give you some values. Mine were the following:
Recv: Clasic PID Recv: Kp: 48.25 Recv: Ki: 4.66 Recv: Kd: 124.91
and set them using the following command:
M301 P48.25 I4.66 D124.91
more here: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
6. Set extruder steps per unit
Remember you had written down some values? Well now is the time to put them back in…
Follow the step Update your Extruder Steps Per Unit from here https://www.lulzbot.com/support/firmware-flashing-through-cura
7. Re-calibrate your Z axis
the new hot end is a bit taller than Buda, so remember to recalibrate your Z axis before you start printing…
P.S. I hope I didn’t forget anything…
Another good reference post is here: https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/e3d-hot-end-first-pics-and-how-to-guide/704/1