E3d Titan Aero

So, after tinkering with the printer for more than a year, I want more. I decided to install an e3d titan aero on the lulzbot mini, I bought the 24v version, modified this design to move the nozzle closer to the bed https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1805062 and so far everything is working (extruding, retracting, heating up, fans, etc.).

I have yet to run a first print, primarily because I have not yet been able to figure out how to set the new parameters for the nozzle position in relation to the bed. I know its a few mm off to the right and a few towards the user, my abilities to modify stl files are somewhat limited. Can anyone point me to a good guide to modify either the firmware or the starting gcode to set the correct nozzle location in relation to the bed?


If you’re using the Lulzbot edition of Cura, look under File>Machine Settings. Most of what you need is broken out there I believe. I’m no expert though.

Thanks, but the settings I needed weren’t there. I ended up finding the answer in the firmware here:

#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Z_MAX_POS 170

I managed to get a first print but still have to fine tune the height as the nozzle touches the leveling spots, but when it prints it is a bit higher than it should be. I will post the settings and the file for the mount once I get it settled if someone else wants to play with it and improve upon it.

I haven’t done the PID tuning or e steps and other than the first layer the print is perfect. I printed a new endstop support for the head with petg.

You can try using the Gcode Z-offset settings in slicer software to test offset (lower) before recompiling into firmware.

Its alive!!! :sunglasses:

Printing out a revised fan and endstops.

It’s Sideways!!!

I am undergoing extreme bed adhesion testing. Everything seems to be working out ok. :laughing:

Seriously though, don’t know why the site shows the picture sideways.

If its the extruder then it is to make space for this:


I have to slightly remake the extruder mount to allow space for the endstop as the current design interferes where it would have been as I had to drop it a bit as it was originally designed for a titan which is longer.

Good luck using the half-height motor, I had problems getting enough torque with one on long term prints and not stuttering.

Yeah I am a bit concerned about it. I had backlash issues at first where the gears did not properly mesh and I thought the motor needed more torque. I messed around with it until they meshed correctly and I am hoping it will work.

This is how the mount is looking, it is dirty and has a few artifacts…


Yeah, half height motor is gone… :laughing:

Using the one on the taz toolhead, clearances are ok.

Made a new cooling fan for it. I am very very happy with this upgrade.

The only thing I am working out is that the bed leveling is a bit finicky, I don’t know if its where it is probing, wiring or sinply the design of the hotend. I have to repeat the process at least 2 times and ultra clean the nozzle.

And these are the settings that apparently fixed the auto leveling:

// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 165
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 185
#define Y_MIN_POS -11
#define Z_MAX_POS 159
#define Z_MIN_POS -.5

We’ve encountered issues with false early positive homing signals on out Beta toolheads for the Mini.
The issue is frequent on Foxglove Minis, rare on Gladiola Minis. We’ve not seen it or had it reported on TAZ 6s (yet, knock on wood).
One of our team scoped the zero sense lead and found a very noisy signal, which was attributed to the circuit that’s made from the stepper to the zero sense lead on an Aero. Interestingly enough, the minor additional capacitance added by connecting the scope caused the issue to go away, so we’re working on adding on a capacitor in the toolheads wiring harness.
It appears that Lulzbot has experienced the issue and developed a capacitor fix: https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/rambo_patch/ We don’t know if this is on production boards (explaining the lack of issues on the Gladiola and TAZ 6), or if it’s only a rework as indicated in the OHAI.

Thank you, I was going crazy troubleshooting the issue trying to find a solution. I don’t know much about capacitors, so I don’t know what I should tinker with. I tried a capacitor with the specs shown in the OHAI document and set it up inline with the lead that connects to the hot end but that didn’t work, it just crashed into the bed.

I would jump on a solution from you guys IT Works.

We’re working on solving the issue for the Mini. We haven’t seen the issue frequently on the Gladiola Minis, which we attribute to some of the RF and wiring improvements, but that doesn’t mean it won’t happen there, just less frequently, and that’s not acceptable for production. According to one of the experts here, the issue should not occur with the 6 because the bed is ground.
We’d REALLY love to be offering a Palette+/1.75 Titan Aero multi color/filament solution for LulzBots (multi color Mini prints!!)

We think we figured out why we haven’t seen the false Z min signal on Gladiola Minis and TAZ 6s. The Foxglove Mini’s z min sense wire on the hotend is connected to the signal input, and ground is connected to the bed. The Gladiola and TAZ 6 sense line is connected to ground, and the signal input is connected to the bed.

I am putting a Titan Aero on a mini, can you tell me how you got the locations to put in for limits and pad location for leveling?


Thank you, I am going to find the cables and mess around with it for a while. I will update if it fixed the issue.

I looked at the starting gcode and used each command to figure out where it would land. Then I adjusted the parameters in the firmware to adjust for the z and y orientation of the new hotend. I also used this website to try to figure out what each command was for:


I posted the settings I ended up using above for the firmware and the holder. I am sure someone can up with a better/cleaner solution but so far I have been extremely happy with the performance. If I had more skills I would make a new piece so that the hotend would attach directly to the rail, and maybe consider using a mirrored version to have the nozzle further back and not have to mess with editing the firmware.

Thanks i am using the mirrored version and it looks like the mount that is in the downloads for the mini puts it near the original and if you use MatterControl there is a digital readout for X Y and Z.