First layer slicing options

Hi, I have recently been printing face plates for electronics. For anyone that is curious the face plate is more for function than cosmetic purposes. I am just trying to improve the cosmetics if that is possible. The flat surface that contacts the glass is the front of the face plate. I was wondering if it is possible to change the slicing options for the first layer?

So far the first layer is always automatically diagonal random lines, whereas the fill layers can be recilinear, hexigonal, etc.

I was wondering if anyone knows a way in which I can change how the first layer of a print is done (lines in different directions, honeycomb pattern, etc)?


Another issue that I am encountering is that the nice finish that can be obtained between ABS prints and the glass is lost when I use ABS/acetone glue to counteract warping/lifting on the corners that occurs. I understand that a acetone vapour bath could fix this, but as the face plate is a large flat surface it would be difficult to find a jar that would house a vapour bath. (It is my understanding that this process is also patented and dangerous).

Thanks,
Kyle

The setting you are looking for is located here: Slic3r > Print Settings > Infill > Top/bottom fill pattern. It’s normally set to Rectilinear, but you can choose between: Concentric, Hilbert Curve, Archemedian Curve and octogram spiral. More information on that can be found in the LulzBot TAZ User Manual and in the online Slic3r Manual

If you’d prefer a more solid glass-like finish, lower your Z axis endstop adjustment so that the first layer height is smaller. The extrusions will blend together more and will produce a nice surface finish. If you find that the ABS and acetone solution transfers to the part, you can wipe it with a diluted acetone mixture.

How do you dilute the acetone?

You could also try Elmer’s Glue stick instead of Lulz juice. With a large surface it may be difficult to get the part off of the glass depending on the surface area. If i designed the part I would insert pry tab undercuts on the corners to help get the part loose.

You could thin it out with some water, until it barely removed some of the residue.

Diluting your acetone with water and then putting it on ABS parts leaves behind thick white residue in my experience.

When you make your lulzjuice, make sure it’s not too thick or still has chunks in it. Then, get a paper towel pad and get it really pretty lulzy. The acetone will start evaporating immediately so put a bit more than you need to do the whole bed at once. Then, when you lay down the lulz, think of it as if you were painting the bed – even coverage and smooth brush strokes. When you remove the part, there will be stresses at the boundary layer that cause discoloration (when you bend ABS filament, it turns white on the outside of the curve from the tensile stress, its basically the same thing when you remove the part). To minimize the tensile stresses, let the part cool fully (or just set your TEG bed to “cool” mode :slight_smile: ) so that the part cools and shrinks separating the part via shear rather than tensile stresses. You can also remove the bed, set it on edge on a rubber mat, and tap it from above with a scraper and a mallet rather than pry it off which helps in the same way.

edit I did end up finding the setting once I was in the expert mode, thanks for the help
No wonder I could not find it. Newer versions of Slic3r do not have this option…

Glad you found it! I’ll be interested in seeing how the top/bottom layers look with the different fill patterns.