kisslicer settings to just "stick"

i really like the resulting kisslicer gcode and how it will generate my part, but i can’t figure out the settings to make the part stick.

using the same stl in slic3r with .35 hot end ini, i always get great first layer adhearsion. using the same stl in kisslicer i can’t seem to get it to work, i tried changing lots of values, and played with the speed in repetier-host with no avail.

what settings in kisslicer are specific to first layer speeds/heights… and how can i copy them from slic3r. i was able to get a little success in some smaller stl’s with slow speeds, but it refused to work with larger stl’s

printing with abs, tried 235/115 and 230/110, surface is always cleaned with acetone after a few prints (2.17 KB)

You may want to stop cleaning the surface with acetone and transition over to using an ABS/acetone solution. The acetone will evaporate away and leave a thin film of ABS, which the deposited ABS filament will stick to perfectly. You can find the recipe in our user manual, or here: on page 103.

I most of the time only use hairspray on the bed. Temps are 230/110 After I clean the bed with hot water and acetone if needed I lay down several light coats of hairspray allowing time do dry a little. Then print away. After every removal use a light hairspray. Eventually I’ll get buildup of hairspray in spots and then just wash the glass with hot water again and repeat.

The print bed heater on the TAZ is adhered to the borosilicate glass so you may not be able to rinse it off very easily.

i was using ABS/acetone solution for a little bit but found a freshly wiped glass with acetone and slightly higher temps stuck better.

i got some extreme hold unscented hairspray, and WOW what a difference it makes! extremely easy to use and parts simply just stick damm well. also like others said, parts simply pop off after cooling.

Yeah, but Jeff said in another topic that with hairspray sometimes parts shrink… Which has me rethinking the matter. :blush:

For some things the shrink might not be a problem for you but for example we tried using the hairspray when printing the large gears for the extruders. After coming off the plate the diameter of the base would be a few millimeter smaller than the top. If you looked at them from the side they would look like they were tapered. That made the gears basically worthless since they would not mess with the small gears right. When we moved on to using the PET and Abs/Acetone and the gears come out without the shrinking so thats the method we recommend for now. So if you are printing things where the dimensions are not that important for the first few layers of the part (e.g. a sculpture, pencil holder, or door stop) then hairspray works well enough.

As it happens I printed parts that were tapered too 2 weeks ago and was wondering why… And checking on my previous parts since switching to hairspray, I noticed most have this problem in varying degree.

So back to Kapton tape I guess! Pity as with hairspray parts were coming off by themselves once the bed cooled, while on Kapton tape I need to pry them off with the knife thus damaging the tape…

PET works better than Kapton. It is more durable, and the parts are easier to get off.

Sorry I always mix up those two. I’m talking about PET tape, it’s the one that came with the AO-100 printer.