I own a Taz 4 but recently upgraded to the Taz 5 single extruder head V2. With all of the re-configuring that I had to do for this, I’m now realizing that I probably won’t be able to use my old Flexystruder V1 with this. Can someone confirm? If so is there a way to re-configure the old Flexystruder to upgrade it? Hope I don’t have an obsolete part sitting here now…
Yes, it can be done you will need to keep your E Steps for both heads and re-flash the firmware when you change from the Hexagon head and buda.
In Cura you will change heads and just select the V1 flexy when you need to use it and flash the firmware, and then when you put the V2 hexagon on, you will select the Taz with a V2 head then flash the firmware. Then you will need to change your E steps to the correct value for that extruder head.
Okay lots of different answers…mostly sounds like a pain. Can someone explain what it means to keep the E-steps and what the point of that is? I did find the flexystruder V1 info page and it says it works with Taz 5 but no guide as to how to assemble that.
I understand that I’ll have to change heads in Cura. My big question is if I take off my V2 toolhead and install the V1 flexystruder I’ll have the wires for the blower basically going to nothing since the Flexystruder doesn’t have a blower?
The ‘E Steps’ is the number of steps the motor has to perform to pull a set amount of filament in to the hot-end. This is used to determine the amount of filament/steps needed to extrude a solid bead for any printing head movement by the slicing program. It is based on the distance the hobbed bolt surface travels in one rotation, which usually is different between each bolt. Thus can be different for the two extruder heads.
The re-flash is needed to control the amount and rate of power sent into the heat element of the hot end. The buda uses a power resistor which will burn out of it is supplied the same amount of power/rate the hexagon heat element can handle. So if you forget to flash back to the taz4 code it will burn out the buda heating resistor during heating.
The unused blower wires can be ignored since they have no problem with connecting to nothing on the extruder.
But you may need an adapter depending on which hexagon connector you have, as the V1 flexy has the 4 individual connectors and some versions of hexagons have them combined into one 2x8 connector.
Okay I think I get it after reading the instructions for calibration. So I recorded my old E-steps for the V2 hex hot end (850) and now I have to record how much filament goes through the flexystruder vs. how much I’m telling it to and enter that number into the E-steps on my LCD screen?
Last question: Looking for the correct firmware to flash in Cura I found this site
and the only flexystruder is the Taz 5. On the OHAI site for installing the flexystruder for Taz 3-4 it notes that “If installing on a TAZ 3D printer equipped with the All-Metal Hexagon Hot End (Fangtooth), you’ll need to reflash the printer with our Flexy TAZ 5 firmware to power the flexystruder” so I’m assuming the Taz 5 flexystruder firmware is correct. The only reason I’m asking is because after I installed the new firmware my LCD screen read “Flexystruder V2” and I have the V1. Does it make it a V2 just because I have a hex hot end now? Just want to be extra careful so I don’t mess anything up before trying to use it!
Update: apparently I used the wrong firmware because when I turned the printer on the hot end turned a glowing orange, filament started pouring out of the extruder and I got a max temp error. Guess I was supposed to use the V1 Budaschnozzle firmware instead of the V2 Flexystruder even though the instructions for the V1 Flexystruder said “if using a hex hot end use the Taz 5 Flexystruder firmware.” So yeah guess I fried the resistor.
Interestingly I think I may have saved it. I updated the firmware to the budaschnozzle and it seems to still be heating and extruding at 230. One thing I did notice playing around with Cura is that if I add a new machine and choose Taz 4/5 and custom and follow that all the way through I’m able to find the V1 flexystruder and it gives me the option to flash to the correct firmware there without having to mess with choosing the correct one from that site. Would have been a lot easier that way. Thanks again for all your help!