A fresh Klipper 3D topic for anyone interrested in switching from Lulzbot Marlin to Klipper and needing some assistance to complete the move
At the moment of writing, there are 3 working Klipper Lulzbot configurations:
(a slightly modified version of) Mini 1 2016
Taz 2017
Taz dual v3 2017
Klipper 3D needs a host to run the Klipper gcode parsing firmware (e.g. the Raspberry Pi that also runs Octoprint) and sends simple stepper/heater/fan-pin instructions to a dumbed-down printer firmware. The advantages are numerous of which rapid innovation is the most obvious.
Spent a whole night trying to get klipper setup. The single extruder 2017 config file seems incomplete. I gave up after about 4 hours…
Lessons learned - semi colons are illegal, and realising that the config file fails parser unless gcode is indented correctly
I found the system really frustrating to use because it doesn’t allow any movement without homing first (which is a catch 22 when the homing doesn’t work) - and you’re constantly having to restart firmware everytime it decides to fail/disconnect from Octoprint… maybe once the machine is properly configured this doesn’t happen much.
The final straw was when the z axis crashed trying to home (wrong x y coords)… and the only way I could figure out how to move the z head back up was to reflash marlin 2.0 and then it was 1am.
Although I think my printer.cfg is pretty close to finished would appreciate if anyone who has Klipper and TAZ6 working could share their cfg with me ? eg. Homing is correct, Start_print macro does the auto levelling, End_print macro
Sorry to hear you had such a bad time trying Klipper. I agree the moving unless homed is a bit tricky and discussed on the FAQ page:
[force_move]
Although not what you asked for, could my Mini config help you on your way? Just be careful that the Mini has a mini-Rambo, so pins probably won’t correspond to yours?
Yeah, that’s my fault, sorry. I was the one who got it kind of working back in 2017, but at the time, the bed tilt support was nonexistent, so I reinstalled Marlin and left Klipper alone for a while.
However, there’s good news! As of today, I’ve got my TAZ6 back up and fully working with Klipper (including probing the washers in the corners and using the values to set the bed tilt!), and I’ll be submitting a pull request to bring the original 2017 config up to date.
I’ve gotta split out my changes, though, because I had to make changes to enable bed probing, and then I had to make other changes to enable the Aerostruder, and right now they’re all jumbled together.
Checking back to this thread… I missed the update from you in Feb but am revisiting Klipper again as I’m about to rebuild my Taz6 with linear rails, a 6mm aluminium build plate/heater with magnets / steel plates, and I’m going to wire up an Inductive z probe (which means no more washers).
Will work off your current config in the Klipper Git so thanks very much!
My TAZ6 is going into the Klipper rebuild now… but with alot of changes.
I built a Voron 2.4 350mm since and it’s so much better than the TAZ6 so there will be some major reworking of the TAZ6. The key thing is reducing the mass of the moving carriage. It’s unbelievable how heavy it is compared to the Afterburner/Galileo I’m running on the Voron.
Will refit the TAZ6 with SKR 1.4 so it won’t be Klipper running off a RAMBO any more.
Funny, I also just built a V0.1, with a V2.4 build pending the rest of my parts.
Sure would be nice if there were a way to mount an Afterburner to the TAZ6…
I got an SKR E3 mini v2 to replace the RAMBO in my TAZ6, hahahaha. Almost all of the connectors are wrong, so I’ve got to either re-terminate and crimp new connectors on, or crimp some adapter cables.
