TAZ 2.1 - Extruder jam all the time.

I bought my TAZ 2.1 for almost 2 months ago and have problems with it.

When it print, then the plastic wire stucks.

Trying to explain:
When the printer move the head to another position, then the extruder running a little backwards to brake the plastic,
then is running forwards again, and that´s where the plastic stucks and nothing comes out.
the extruder axel just make a hole in the plastic thread.

How can I fix this?

Hot end is not blocked, because I can easily press the plastic thru manually.

I hope there is someone who possesses a good one, for it fails in every print.

Kind Regards
Jan - Denmark

What type of plastic are you printing? If you are printing in PLA, that type of plastic can expand as it heats. If you recently changed your backwards to break settings (retraction) it could be jamming in the bore. If you are not already running a fan on the upper portion of the hot end, you might want to start. You should also check that the hot end and the extruder are lined up.

Also check your idler tension.

Im using ABS from LULZBOT.

Ok, ABS doesn’t have the thermal expansion issue, so thats not it. I would try the following steps.

  1. Check the set screw on the NEMA 17 motor small gear and make sure it is tightened all the way.
  2. Open the filament chamber, remove the filament and check for any plastic shavings. Remove and clean any shavings
  3. Use a pointy object such as a toothpick to clean any plastic out of the hobbed bolt teeth.
  4. Check that the idler bearing turns freely in both directions without binding or friction. Clean and oil as needed. If you still have friction at that point, replace the bearing and or check for idler latch deformities that might cause the idler bearing to not turn.
  5. with the printer off, check that the hot end is lined up with the filament hole in the extruder properly.
  6. Make sure the idler latch filament guide lines up with the center of the hobbed section of the hobbed bolt.
  7. Make sure the filament guide tube isn’t pinched It should be sitting on top of the idler filament guide, not wedged between the two sides of the guide.

If everything looks correct at that point, re-install filament, set the spring tension bolts to the recommended tension per the manual, and then try again.

I had the same issue. I didn’t notice the issue until I was doing very small parts which had a lot of retracts or when trying to prime the extruder with large manual runs on pronterface. The root cause came to light when doing Triffid Hunters calibration proceedure- I noticed the 100mm marks on the filament stalling every revolution of the extruder gears. His proceedure mentions removing the nozzle so it isn’t a restriction but I left it on and I was exceeding the capabilties of the extruder with the extruder speed. I suspected that the extruder can only melt so much material so fast or pressure builds up to the point of stalling the filament which causes the grinding at the hobbed bolt. Once this happens you have to stop, clean the hobbed bolt very thoroughly, and slow the extruder speeds down.

  1. After doing everything that Piercet mentions set the spring tension to a 6mm gap. I use a 6mm allen wrench to measure the distance between the washers.
  2. I slowed the extruder retraction speed down in the slicer advanced settings and also the extrusion speed on Pronterface.
  3. Since you are using Lulzbot ABS I wouldn’t suspect the diameter to be bigger then the insert in the Budaschnozzle. I run Jet ABS and had to open up the insert to accomodate the larger diameter filament. This too was an issue for me but probably isn’t for you.

I haven’t had any issues since I’ve done this. I just finished a 11 hour print yesterday that came out perfect. The Taz is capable of doing exceptional work on long arduous runs. It sometimes is a painful learning curve though. Hope that helps.