Taz 6 error Probe Fail Clean Nozzle

[PdxSteve]

Yes the blue scotchbrite non-scratch scrubbing pads, or the blue scotchbrite sponges with the scrub pad on one side, works great. Cheap at Costco too. It seems to work best to heat your nozzle to about 120C. Not too hot as you don’t want to melt the scrub pad and I’m not sure how hot those pads can get before melting. I usually do it at the beginning of the leveling process while its sitting there waiting for the temps to come up just before it starts autocleaning the head.

Also make sure you keep the 4 metal bed corners extremely clean! For those I use the scotchbrite with a tiny drop of rubbing alcohol.

[shwannz]

Hi People. I have just joined the forum as I am facing this issue as well on my third print so far. I have not come across an answer as to what the issue might be? Speaking to support seems to be a common trend but has anyone actually had much luck on resolving this probe fail clean Nozzle issue?

[aclaver]

I just solved my Probe Failed error by cleaning the nozzle with 99.9% pure Isopropyl and a stick wipe. I didn’t need to sand or use any abrasives.

[Guilhem]

Hi everybody,

I am new on this forum and have been using a lulzbot taz 6 since a couple of days. I am also facing this probe fail problem after maybe dozen of prints with 3 different materials - eGen, ABS and Nylon. It is true that there is some residue on the nozzle but nothing like clogging: I can manually extrude and the filament looks normal once extruded.

I find interesting the answers concerning the fail of the electrical contact between the nozzle and the pads and tomorrow I 'll try to clean the nozzle deeply, out of the printer. What do you think about an acetone bath before cleaning it with alcohol? Does anybody experiment something like that?

And, if the auto-levelling sequence needs a really really clean nozzle, what do you think about integrating a wipe sequence also at the end of the prints in the G-code?

By advance, thanks for sharing experience and feedback!

[DAP]

A wipe sequence at the end of the print would not be possible. Parts of the x axis stage would run into the printed object. The wipe sequence can only happen if the printer bed is empty.

[Erin]

I just had this error but was able to fix it by replacing my wipe pad. (I’d been using my TAZ with a single extruder for some time, and it was probably overdue for a wipe pad replacement.)

[kcchen_00]

@DAP

A wipe sequence at the end of the print would not be possible. Parts of the x axis stage would run into the printed object. The wipe sequence can only happen if the printer bed is empty.

Hmm… that makes sense. Someone should adapt the wiper to the back Y location and make changes to the wipe script.

[piercet]

@kcchen_00

Hmm… that makes sense. Someone should adapt the wiper to the back Y location and make changes to the wipe script.

There is this: Retrofit Nozzle wiper for mounting a Lulzbot Mini style bed wiper to a Taz or other printer by piercet - Thingiverse

[kcchen_00]

@piercet

There is this: Retrofit Nozzle wiper for mounting a Lulzbot Mini style bed wiper to a Taz or other printer by piercet - Thingiverse

Figures you’re on top of this…

Make it a direct “bolt-on” and it would be perfect… Not sure many are as adept at working with aluminum as you.

EDIT: Okay… Took the liberty to make an addition to make your model “bolt-on”.

Option 1 is to use longer M5 screws to “clamp” the wiper holder on along with the wiper.

Option 2 is the modified wiper holder which slips onto the aluminum plate, uses the existing M3 screws (with hex nuts in the inserts) to secure. This version may be harder to print without support control like in S3D (need supports for the plate opening, no supports in the M3 hex nut slots).

I need to measure the aluminum plate thickness… I assumed it was 3mm. These were also created sight unseen… so feedback would be appreciated.

TAZ Wiper Holder - Bottom Clamp.V2.stl (184 KB)
TAZ Wiper Holder - Full.V2.stl (429 KB)

[piercet]

The only direct bolt on method that would work would be to anchor it off the right or left rear bed anchor. There are bolt holes there, but it wouldn’t be secure at the far end. You could supplement that with a pinch clamp method (heatset insert on bottom, M3 bolt on top, tighten bolt to pinch, etc) but that would make it stick out a bit on the side and add a bit of mass. If you want one like that though i’ll make one.

[kcchen_00]

… I need to learn to type faster…

Edited my previous post with some ideas for a bolt-on.

[piercet]

@kcchen_00

… I need to learn to type faster…

Edited my previous post with some ideas for a bolt-on.

Those both look like they would work, the bed is 3mm, the one tricky part you will have to contend with is the heated bed itself. there is about 8mm clearance between the bed mount plate top and the underside of the bed, +/- a bunch as people adjust the bed up and down. Maximum “minimum distance” clearance is going to be around 6mm. On a stock Taz you could put the bolts on the bottom without hitting anything, they may be in the way for a rail mod.

[Guilhem]

Just a little updtate since yesterday, i fix the problem by slightly/gently sand the nozzle with a sanding sponge…
Not really ideal…
I mean, if a nozzle cleaning is required at high frequency, it is a bit problematic. On one hand an automatic process is clearly usefull but on the other hand i just told my «advanture» to a taz5 user and he «haw haw» me!

Maybe create an artificial electric contact with a metallic hook to pass through th sequence?

[kcchen_00]

@piercet

[
Those both look like they would work, the bed is 3mm, the one tricky part you will have to contend with is the heated bed itself. there is about 8mm clearance between the bed mount plate top and the underside of the bed, +/- a bunch as people adjust the bed up and down. Maximum “minimum distance” clearance is going to be around 6mm. On a stock Taz you could put the bolts on the bottom without hitting anything, they may be in the way for a rail mod.

Hmm… Okay. So your referring to the Model 2 requiring the M3 hex nuts to clamp onto the aluminum plate. How about turning it upside down so that the M3 screws that “clamp” onto the plate is accessible from the bottom?

Its going to boil down to some fitment… I think the aluminum plate indents in by a ~10mm, there may be some screws that obstruct the wiper holder. I’ll have to print and check when I get back to the printer.

Here are some shims that can be put under the wiper assembly to raise it to bed height.
TAZ Wiper - Shim 1mm.stl (157 KB)
TAZ Wiper - Shim 2mm.stl (158 KB)

[DAP]

Even with the bed all the way forward, the cold end fan still overhangs the print area. You can not put a cleaning pad on the back of the bed for post print cleaning unless you are willing to give up a significant amount of build volume.

[piercet]

The bed should have enough travel on a 5 or a 6 for the nozzle to be a full inch behind the bed at a minimum if you want and still be able to hit the front left corner with ease.

[DAP]

@piercet

The bed should have enough travel on a 5 or a 6 for the nozzle to be a full inch behind the bed at a minimum if you want and still be able to hit the front left corner with ease.

True, but the fan sticks out 2" in front of the nozzle, so you would loose the back 1" from the build area if you attempt to clean the nozzle after a print.

[piercet]

If you are printing a full bed piece at least 1 inch thick, I would not recommend running an end clean.

[kcchen_00]

Hmm… maybe the next project is to redesign the toolmount so the 30x30 heatsink fan can be mounted on the back.

I’d contend that the 1" edge around the bed would be unusable due to the lower heat (from dissipation)… at least for ABS, the edge would probably be prone to warping.

Oh well… I don’t have a TAZ6 with the heatsink fan on the front… so I guess that’s my contribution to this cause.

[planar_dragon999]

I encountered this error as well, and on a brand new out of box TAZ 6!

What I believe is, at least in my case, either the right hand side of the print bed was too low or the right hand side of the x axis bar was tilted too high, which was preventing the nozzle tip from contacting the metal corner pads during the autolevel sequence before initiating the print.

Basically, at the start of the autolevel, the nozzle touched the first corner metal contact pad (front left corner) quickly, then wound down to it slowly with no issues. Then it moved over to the next corner contact pad (front right) to attempt the same sequence.

However, when the printer head lowered to touch front right corner pad, right after the first quick touchdown, it went straight away into a “Rewiping” sequence instead of into the slow “wind down / touch” sequence observed on the first contact pad, indicating no electrical contact on pad #2. Basically, at this point, if i left the machine to it’s own devices, it repeated this fast touch down attempt / rewiping sequence two more times before aborting with the “Clean noz” error. =(

Not giving up, I restarted the print/autolevel sequence, but this time slightly bent the front right corner of the bed / pad upwards, and WALLAH!! the nozzle touched the pad ok on the quick one, then ok on the slow wind down and moved on to the rear right corner (where it unfortunately failed again with another “rewiping” / “CLEAN NOZ” error string).

At the end of it, I found that babysitting the machine through the entire right hand side of the autolevel sequence and unleashing my awesome “Bed Bending” technique on the unit allowed it to carry into the printing sequence successfully.

However, this is pretty caveman - I’m pretty sure theres a better way to get the nozzle to figure out exactly where the contact pads actually are without having to manually fool it into thinking the autolevel sequence was successful. (step 23 above?)

Cheers!