Long time reader, first time poster & new Taz 6 owner.
Thanks to those posting previous in thread the tip about getting a “scotch-brite” pad (we have them by a different name in AU) i think it’s safe to say it’s any “non stick pan safe” cleaning sponge if you can’t find the specific brand.
Thing i’m a bit disappointed by is the pre-print wipe does near nothing after the first 4-5 prints. PLA seems to wipe off alright but it clogs up the wiping pad very quickly and is not useful without having to clean it out regularly.
Just started experimenting with PETG, and that stuff really sticks to the nozzle hard. Running a back to back print without intervention is impossible due to the stuff under the nozzle, some sort of post print wipe would fix this i think. Another part of the problem is the default warm up just isn’t at the temp that it turns the PETG to a really gummy point. My new pre-print prep is essentially raise the z an inch or two, get it to 210c and give it a once over with the sponge, haven’t had a levelling failure since. I have considered raising the nozzle temp up a bit higher in my print settings just don’t like the idea of getting that felt too hot.
Anyone tried just replacing the felt with a bit of the cleaning sponge?
I upped the warm temp to 175 for petg in the script as I was having this issue. Worked a charm. It does however stick like a bitch to yhe nozzle and has a tendency to build up on the stock hexagon hot end. Switched to an e3d and not had an issue since. Auto level works great and no build up on the nozzle now. I’d be lying if I said I knew exactly why but oh well.
Just to chip in. In my situation even after using 99% IPA, sanding, changing the cleaning pad, the issue was still going on. I then measured both sides of the printer and realized that the left hand side was a bit higher than the right, fixed that and issue solved
After several hundred print hours, I was having the auto-leveling fail every print. After doing the following, I’ve now done 12 prints in a row with a successful start every time:
make sure the frame is square per OHAI
replace my Z pad button as it was getting wonky and causing variations in height
re-adjust the two Z axis leadscrews (measure from the top x-axis rod to the top of the frame) to be within 0.25mm of each other.
…and the biggest change…add another line to the start g-code, to slightly cool off the hot end after probing the Z pad but before wiping.
I realized that after wiping, I was getting a slight bit of ooze from the tip. Barely enough to see. This would do one of two things:
ooze enough that it would fail by the time it got to the back right corner, or
leave a little microscopic “hershey kiss” of filament behind on the front corner discs after touching, that would cause it to fail the next time.
So, for the filament I was using (Voltivo Excelfil from Cubicity), the softening temp was 170 when probing the Z-button. I added another line that lowered that to 160. Basically, wiping starts at 170 but has cooled to 160 before it’s done, and no ooze.
I also quickly wipe the nozzle with a scotch-brite pad every 10 prints or so.
I know those may have been mentioned already in this thread, but I figured I’d confirm that those fixes have worked for me.
Hi, I had the same issue very recently, and I did all steps on the link below and the measurements where perfect on my printer. https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/squaring-taz-6-frame/
So when I looked at the extruder, it was very loose. I tighted all screws carefullt (they are very small) and many where loose.
I than restarted the printer and it is now working perfectly.
Prior to that issue, I had been printing for 3 months and maybe 150h of printing max.
hope this helps!
My printer has the same problem, but the probe will not touch the contacts.
I fixed the second probe by increasing the height of the probe, but even after increasing the height of the third probe, it will not contact the point.
I have had this issue reoccurring for a year now. Done all these steps hundreds of times, basically each few prints. Got so sick of it, I just removed the gcode for the probe action, and leveled the X- axis relative to the table it’s on. Then I placed a 3mm bolt under each corner of the print bed between the glass and the flex foot. Then I leveled each corner of the build plate relative to the table as well. Voila. No more probe fail BS. The nice thing about the little bolts under the glass, is the flex footers push it back up, so it’s easy to adjust and it keeps tension.
This also worked for me, thanks for the share/info.
I would like to mark your reply “good/useful/helpful/solution” but I guess we’re using a late '90s version of phpBB with a facelift? Or I’m too '90s to figure it out.
Still occasionally scrubbing with a “Scotch-brite” type cleaner on occasion but have been able to get several prints to work in a row after some mods to the startup script.
Note the below is for a printer that is generally dialed in and doesn’t have the squaring or other issues, suggest you start there if reading this thread for help.
1, after running petg through it i increased the first M109 in the startup the s value to something higher, in part as the stuff is so sticky it needs more heat to break off.
2, for other mats including PLA, also increased this value slightly, i think i just added 10 degrees to it.
3, after the retract before the wipe (series of G1 steps in the startup) i added an M104 (change temp, don’t wait S150) to something substantially lower. My thinking was this, have the inital temp of the wipe to something decent to wipe the print head but then let it lower so it doesn’t ooze when it’s doing the checks. This last item seems to have helped a lot.
Lastly also always add skirt/brim to prints, for tiny maybe 7-10 for mid maybe 5-6 and large only 1-2, i found i get better prints overall if the head has be primed really well.
Note am using Simplify3d so may need to adjust differently in cura. My PLA startup script below just the section with the mods at the top.
Found in the scripts section of process settings;
G26 ; clear probe fail condition
M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; start heating bed
M104 S175 ; start heating extruder
G28 XY ; home X and Y
G1 X-19 Y258 F1000 ; move to safe homing position
M109 S170 ; soften filament for Z homing
G28 Z ; home Z
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
G1 E-12 F100 ; retract 12mm filament
M104 S150 ; lower temp to prevent ooze
G1 X-15 Y100 F3000 ; move above wiper pad
Just another possible solution to your issues. Don’t print on carpet… every other print of mine was having this issue. I’d have to clean the crap out if the nozzle tip and even then, only sometimes would it work. Simplify3D wouldn’t even print for me anymore, had to go back to cura.
I accepted this issue and just learned to deal with it for about a year. About a month ago, I placed a cutting mat underneath my taz 6. And now I have no issues whatsoever. I’m back on simplify3d, I’m back to perfect prints. No more cleaning my nozzle, not even after printing with PETG. Life’s good again.
Or I’m too '90s to figure it out.