TAZ 6 Troubleshooting for Student Use

Well, I feel pretty stupid now!

Not just for not knowing what extruder I was working with, but for also managing to break it in the process.

Well, hopefully my replacement nozzle will live up to the task… Sad to think that the nozzle was perfectly fine, I just wasn’t on the right setting for it.

I suppose there’s no salvaging it since it got snapped off, but I’m glad we (hopefully!) figured out this mystery.

You need to cancel that order. The nozzle you ordered won’t fit - not long enough.

Did you say you broke off the nozzle?

Yes, as in the screw part of the nozzle is still inside of the hotend. I ordered a reverse/inverse screw bit to get it out.

Is there a specific length needed for the TAZ 6? I was under the impression these short ones would fit, but if it needs a longer screw part, please, a little direction would help.

[Edit: looks like it’s a little too late to cancel the nozzle, so I’ll just end up returning it, I suppose]

Here’s the spec sheet on the nozzle you broke: 1.2mm-MOARstruder-nozzle_PP-MP0155_revB_p1.pdf (lulzbot.com)

Relevant details are 16mm thread length of M6 thread.

The exact “Opah” nozzles aren’t available anymore from e3d, but the Volcano nozzle is compatible. Here’s some nice ones: Plated Wear Resistant High Flow Volcano Compatible 2.85mm Nozzles — Micro Swiss Online Store (micro-swiss.com)


I think it’s time I reply with some kind of update, as I’m sure anyone following this thread has been dying to know what’s happened with our device! :grin:

First and foremost, thank you @Wrathernaut and @zenotek for helping me through my, honestly, facepalm inducing moment. Of course it’s a thicker extrusion, that’s why it never seemed to print correctly despite everything else being just fine.

Like I said–I broke the nozzle in the process of attempting to remove it on my own. (Yes, I heated it before trying to remove–my problem was momentarily forgetting righty-tighty from lefty-loosey.) We tried manually removing it with a reverse screw, to no avail (we essentially just stripped the brass nozzle further). My professor is going to hack at it with a tap-and-die set, since we know the inner size is M6. We’ve just been busy (end of semester scramble) so we haven’t gotten to it just yet.

In the meantime, I’ve printed some fresh gears for this printer and the other one that’s hanging out in his office in ASA (our Engineering print lab has more industrial-type printers unlike our open-air PLA only lab). I hear it’s stronger than ABS and can hold up to outdoor conditions. I’m still debating on putting them in because I don’t want to screw this thing up any further than I already have.

I’ve also started demo’ing a custom print profile for PrusaSlicer using the MOARstruder parameters in Cura. Since all the students learn PrusaSlicer and basically only use it here at school, I figured that would be better than making them switch over to another slicer. It works–in theory. I’m hoping that my professor can take a moment to try my test print to see if it functions correctly.

If we can’t get the nozzle out successfully, we’ll replace the heat block–it won’t be pretty, but I’d rather give that a shot than deem this whole thing a failure.

Again, thank you everyone for helping with troubleshooting. I truly appreciate it and I hope that we can get this thing working before I graduate!

I’d share my current Taz6 profiles for PrusaSlicer, but I’m so heavily modified that they wouldn’t be of use.

This bit of startup will help get around the lack of soften/wipe/probe temperatures in PrusaSlicer:

I use a variant of this code for my Pro Dual Extruder profile in OrcaSlicer right now (different placeholder/variable names) and it helps prevent having to use multiple different printer profiles for each filament type.