Taz6 Issues (Zero location, wiping pressure, z lead screw moved)

Hello,
I just dug my Taz6 out of the box after setting it up once in 2018… I had planned on using it to make cool stuff but I went through some medical issues unfortunately. When I took it out in 2018 it worked well, I had bought it from a business that had used it some for production.
However now I noticed something when I got it back together yesterday… For one, my x-axis was crooked… Unfortunately when my friend helped me box everything up in 2018 he grabbed the Z-lead screw and spun it. This was causing Z-axis to not move, it was VERY bound. I used calipers and leveled the X-axis rails to the bed by tuning the right lead screw. This fixed the binding and everything moves fine. Is this the proper way to do this? Or is there a better way?
When I tried making a print using Simplify3d it was not working, totally fresh install, it seemed like it was smashing the filament way to hard on the first layer and it was coming right back up all over the nozzle… I auto homed the machine then moved it over to the bed and set Z to 0 height. This actually pushed down on the bed slightly. This doesnt seem correct? If i set it to 1mm i should be able to just fit a 1mm feeler gauge in there correct? Is there a way to change this or is it taken care of by the “Probe Offset” only after bed leveling during a print?
The other issue is the wiping pressure on those pads seems insanely excessive. It actually moves my entire print head around in the x-axis mount. I took it off and made sure there was no damage and that everything was tight… It SEEMED like it was not damaged. Is this supposed to push THAT hard? Is there a way to fix this? I couldn’t really find any info on this.
Right now I resorted back to Cura and am doing the initial Rocktapus print and it SEEMS to be going ok now. Just on the fresh cleaned PEI bed and no tape or glue using MatterHackers green PLA. It may be Simplify3d settings or something… I hope not because i like that program more. It just seems easier to manage filaments, objects on the table, and settings easier then “Lulzbot Edition Cura”. I actually paid for the Simplify3d also, its not a trial version.

Any help would be really appreciated!
Thank you!

Your method for leveling the X axis is correct.

I assume you can manually send individual commands to the printer (and see the results). If so, please enter G28 X Y, G28 Z, G29 V4. This sequence (and its output) will zero the axes and the output will show how level the bed appears to be.

Next, please enter M851. This will show was the current Z-offset is. The washers on the corners of the bed are higher than the bed and this value reflects that difference (it should be around -1.2). You said moving over the bed and then setting Z to 0 pushed into the bed slightly. Changing the Z-offset (to be less negative) should fix this (M851 Z-1.xx). Setting Z to 1mm should just fit a 1mm feeler gauge. You can also use M115 which will output much more of the preset values in the firmware.

The wiping sequence is not a firmware feature, it is part of the start gcode configured in the slicer, when you tell CuraLE what printer / tool head you have, it will install start gcode and end gcode that should work for that combination. Simplify3D should also configure the start and end gcode. You can compare the two and verify that the wipe sequence is the same. Note that there are more temperature variables ({} in Cura, [] in S3D) in CuraLE than in S3D so some of the values should be hard-coded.

My TAZ6 is connected to an Raspberry Pi 3B running OctoPrint. Not only can I send individual commands to the printer, I can capture the results in a file.

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Yes my nozzle pressed into the bed when I used the console and wheel ON the machine to move Z axis to Zero. I didn’t use G-Code. I wasn’t sure if the “offset” was applied only to prints and incoming coordinates and not to the console input locations. It said that bed leveling and such was used to modify the location of prints so that’s why I wasn’t sure if it changed the zero location of where it goes when I command it through the integrated machine console.
I finally got it to print pretty well using S3d, previously I made a few decent prints with Cura but was having bridging issues. Although the bridge wasn’t even that large (19mm on a 1/10 scale jack stands for RC vehicle) I had 1 successful print when printing them in pairs (1 of 2 good 2 of 2 only lost a foot when bridging above it) and a few failed attempts that couldn’t make the bridge or they yanked the legs off the print bed when trying to pull filament strings. That is why I wanted to get S3d running correct. I remembered S3d had special features for bridging (speed, fan speed, etc).
Anyway, I made a box to hold spices for my wife and it came out pretty decent. However the initial layer settings may be off a bit (90% height, 100% width, 50% speed) because when measured the skirt height was .33mm tall (primary layer height set to .3mm for “fast print”)
I want to do another test to take measurements on. My box design was 50mm height but ended up at 50.15
If the Z height WAS incorrect then my first layer wouldn’t have been taller then it was supposed to be correct? Or was that fixed by the automatic bed leveling actually being implemented on the print?
I saw that Octoprint and thought it was pretty awesome!! My printer is in my detached garage (heated) and the whole remote monitoring/control is awesome!! Although I’m new to 3d printing and wasn’t sure if this was way out of my league to get it running. I don’t really know a whole lot about G-Code, we did it in high school like 20 years ago lol. I’m not tech stupid though lol. I was the lead robotic technician on our build floor at Lincoln Electric’s Automation Division and did everything from wiring troubleshooting, robotic troubleshooting, assembly, install, and and advanced programming. Although newer robots don’t really use G-Code like they used to… It’s a move robot and save position with defined movement parameters built in (can modify linear or cartesian moves and such though).
I do ramble though and have ADD, if you can’t tell from above. LoL

Hi there,

Let me add my 2 cents here. Others can chime in and correct if needed.
If your part design is 50mm high and your layer height is .3mm, then the required number of layers would be 166.67. Rounding up to 167 layers would yield a print height of 50.1mm. This assumes first layer is .3mm. You measured .33mm for the first layer therefore the overall print height would be 50.13mm. Here I will assume .02mm as tolerance inaccuracy as your final measurement was 50.15mm.

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Oh man :man_facepalming:t2: I didn’t even think about the layer thickness vs height. That totally makes sense! Duh, can’t evenly divide 50 by 3. So .02mm over 50mm is pretty decent tolerance? Since I’m rather new to this whole thing I honestly don’t know if that’s considered good compared to other machines!
So it sounds like I’m ok there and just need to work out the initial layer height discrepancy.
Thanks very much for your input TigerMike!
Also a big thank you to you b-morgan, I am sorry for not properly thanking you in my prior post. I think I was just brain scrambled with all the little things plus I replied when I had just woken up so I don’t think I was running on full steam! Haha!