What temp settings you guys running for ABS part has cracks

Im wondering if you guys are adjusting temp for ABS from the recommend 240c? Having some layer splitting and cracking. Wondering if the filament is to hot at 240c with bed temp at 110.

Filament is Lulzbot ESun ABS.

try 230 / 85. If that helps, try even lower on the nozzle, maybe 225 or 220

I’m having the same problems, if I use the settings above, will I need the fan on or off?

I print ABS (eSUN) at 240-245C with minimal fan 30-40% after about 5mm into the project. My reasoning is the higher extrusion temps and minimal cooling allow the new extruded filament to bond better with the previous layer. Its molten/liquid longer therefore better adhesion…


I always print abs at 230. Seems to work ok.

If you have tall ABS parts, build a housing for your printer. That solved my problem and was confirmed by Lulzbot support. As you build taller parts, the parts away from the bed will be cooler than the part attached to the bed. The temperature different will cause warping/splitting. By building an enclosure, you keep the ambient air temperature more even across the entire part and allow it to cool at a consistent rate.

Doing this got rid of all my splitting issues.


Quantify “tall”? :slight_smile:. I’ve had projects which delaminate at 2cm… The fix for me was increasing the extrusion temps… But that may not be the fix for everyone.

In general an enclosure will always help. And they identify the culprit which is the upper layers cooling too fast, which leads to contraction/shrinkage of the ABS.

So for those without an enclosure, the trick is finding an extrusion temp and cooling so proper bonding of the layers occur. Tough to give an ultimate answer since everyone’s printing environment can vary… Unless you have an enclosure. :slight_smile:

I print ABS at 250 with the Hexagon Hot End. Parts stick will although I have yet to see how large of a print I can complete without a crack. Items the size of a fist or larger have fared well so far.

Im a new user to taz5 and was having a similar problem. I found if I turned off the automatic fan settings in Slic3r this seemed to solve the problem. Hope this helps.

Can we get a definite guide on this? Several posts say encloss, some say increase temps, and some decrease temps .

Right now I am in the middle of a thing with Lulzbot spin off company with a refurbed Mini. I get advice to set at 230, now I see 250 and I am running the bed at 110. My last trial was 245/110 and a micro fiber towel enclosure which held temps inside at 85-92 DegF. STILL had pulling off the bed on both ends of a 145 mm long job. I am replacing the heated bed with my own money because they say its ok. So What the Heck is the procedure for doing ABS without warping or pulling off the bed??
My job is 145 mm long,38 wide and 32 mm high. I am ready to send this Mini back and get a MakerGear M2 who owners say just runs and runs.

  1. Print it with a brim.
  2. Print it with a larger brim
  3. Increase your starting layer to the maximum feasible for your nozzle. For example, a .50mm nozzle likes a .4mm starting layer on a PEI surface.
  4. 110 should be way too high on the mini bed. The older style copper plate beds were supposed to be set at 110, the flexable rubber one on the mini is supposed to be 85c. That being said on my TAZ I usually print at around 92.
  5. What does your part bottom look like. Id it all uniform and flat, or are there areas where it looks wrinkled and deformed near where it lifted? If its all flat, you are getting lifting due to the part cooling too much and contracting, and you probably need to move your printer to somewhere warmer. If they look wrinkled you aren’t getting good bed adhesion to begin with, which means the leveling is off. Clean the nozzle really good, and level it again.

If it is still lifting after all of that, clean the bed really well with isopropyl rubbing alchohol, sand it lightly with a red 3m scuffing pad to rough up the surface, and try again.

Also post the stl file here. I want to take a look at it and see if the part is actually flat on the bottom. You might also try printing it with support once just to see if there is a part error.

also, what spin off company?

Taz 5 - natural ABS (also used same settings with white)

Without an enclosure (of any kind) just wouldn’t work well for large objects. I was able to print without too much warping on flat 5-15mm high objects. Temp 250 Bed 110 brim 8-10mm

I highly suggest building an enclosure. The simplest - a cardboard box setup - worked very well for me. I printed about 20+lbs with Temp 250 Bed 90-100 brim 8-10mm.

Last weekend I made an acrylic enclosure which not only keeps the heat well but also dampens the noise. It’s fantastic. I cannot stress the benefits*. I’m now printing with temp 245 bed 85 brim 5mm. Everything, so far, has printed perfectly.

*the most important benefit of building an enclosure is venting. My current setup is relatively sealed with an exhaust fan taking the abs fumes out a window. There is no conclusive evidence if these fumes are harmful but why risk it!

It’s a company that takes returns from Lulzbot and refurbs and resells. Spent 2 days with them sending pictures and changing settings, Done all you have suggested except for the brim. While I a waiting for the new print bed, going to try. 245/110 and Lulz juice and of course the enclosure . I was told to keep the bed hot to prevent job from cooling and lifting.
I use Cura thinking of going to Slicer 3D so I can do changes like add a Brim or make bottom layers thicker.

The real problem with a definitive guide is that there are too many variables. Ambient temp, project size, filament brand, filament color and sometimes printer placement… They all come into play unfortunately. It’s just a matter of learning your printer and setup.

Delamination (ABS) is due to poor layer adhesion and contraction from cooling too fast. Parameters to consider are:

  • Extrusion temps - higher keeps the extruded plastic molten/liquid longer for better adhesion with previous layer.
  • Cooliing - less cooling to let the new extrusion stay molten for better layer adhesion. Try 30-60% fan. Use the fan at 100% for bridging to harden and lock the filament in place.
  • Orientation of project - our print beds move in the y-axis. This potentially causes more cooling on the x-faces of the project. Rotating 45deg could help more even cooling of all faces. Adding an expendable pilar / wall to shield corners from airflow could help.

Enclose the printer if possible to trap heat. The higher ambient temp (from bed and hotend) will reduce cooling from the bed movement and the comfortable temp in the house. This allows a lower extrusion temp, which should produce cleaner and crisp corners.

A lot of really good and new to me suggestions. Wonder why the difficulty in doing ABS wasn’t noted in the instructions or sales info?

So it looks like you need to have an enclosure for sure and then run the extruder temps much higher than recommended. The bed instead of being 85 as suggested needs to be 110 C . FYI I am using filament from TAZ but I can see no difference from the material purchased at 1/2 the price.

Rotating the project makes sense, I have tried the rotation but not with all the other changes suggested.

I see no settings in Cura to change layer thickness or density for the first 4 layers or turning the fan on and off. So what do I need to buy software wise to do that? I don’t mind spending some money, I just want it right.

Well being somewhat stupid (on learning 3D printing) I did not read the documentation with Cura, I need to set down and just read and use what I have.

Argh. Bad forum. It ate my reply. Ok, nevermind then.

I’ve recently found that if you do get cracks in your model, you can use a 3Doodler to fill them in and make them good as they ought to have been!

Unfortunately, I don’t think there is a definitive guide. In all my discussions with tech support, and other people, it all depends on a number of factors.

What I have found for myself…

Small parts, use the media cooling fan, otherwise, you get mushy parts.

I added a second media fan to the left side as I was having left-handed overhangs look like crap

I run between 230 and 240, but different brands/colors of ABS have different optimal temps.

Bed at 110, any lower and I find problems with adhesion.

Rafts are something I’ve been using more as some parts will give me deformation of the first mm or so that a raft will fix.

This is what is so far working for me, YMMV