So let’s say I were getting an Einsy Rambo to put in my original Mini. What are thoughts on the best way to deal with the firmware for that? I’m not particularly concerned about catching skipping or power loss etc right now, I mostly just want my mini to be quieter. The two most likely scenarios seem to be recompile the mini 1 firmware with options for taking advantage of the quieter trinamic drivers or waiting for the mini 2 firmware and setting the print area to match the mini 1. I haven’t looked into the firmware changes necessary for bed leveling, but I expect that taking the Prusa firmware and trying to adapt that to the mini will be the… most difficult path, but the first option may be a close second. Has anyone given this more thought than I have so far?
I found the Marlin Source https://code.alephobjects.com/project/profile/6/ so I’m thinking copy the Hibiscus_Mini2 from https://code.alephobjects.com/diffusion/MARLIN/browse/devel/Marlin/Conditionals_LulzBot.h and make my own with some of the flags turned off (like the LCD ones, for example). Doesn’t look so bad, though I’ll probably wait until it’s a little closer to release to do this.
Marlin 126.96.36.199 is the final version for the Mini 2 Release, units start shipping June 20th!
Fantastic, working on it now. Once I figure out where the wires go on the new board and test it out, I put my fork up on github in case anyone else needs it (presuming I don’t accidentally set my printer on fire or anything).
First major problem: fan connectors are different between the boards (so far everything’s been either the right connector or gone connectorless into screw terminals. Hmmm.
The endstops are also different (no z endstop, which is presumably because of the fancy new board not needing it) and also they have different connectors. My wiring diagram from the sales page for the mini rambo also doesn’t label the endstops, and has something hooked up to what’s called exp 2 which I presume is actually Fan2 if I remember correctly, so I’m going to have to dig up some better documentation there. Still, fairly close, if also some days away depending on how quickly I can find and get the connectors.
And now that it’s going to be some time before my mini is working, I’m wondering if the RepRapDiscount LCD screen will generally work with the conditionals set up for the mini2. https://ultimachine.com/collections/electronics/products/lcd-smart-controller-kit-from-reprapdiscount Probably best to wait on that one and not make too many changes at once. Nnnnooo, perusing the firmware, it looks like it’ll have its own driver and settings.
I have found my biggest failing, which is that the Mini2 is using a new board, the Einsy Retro, which has things like z-endstop switches and 24v fan power supplies. So I’ll probably have to dial this back a bit and, if I move forward, move the discussion into a hardware board.
I just did this conversion. The endstops are not an issue. The fans (ie fan1 and fan2 have to be changed to molex 3pin with clip to have a good connection). The 5v hotend cooling fan can be powered via exp3 port pins 2&4. The firmware can be hacked to include the necessary options as a update to mini’s config. To achieve the end result took me about 3h in total all included. I assume that with instructions and preconfigured firmware this mod would take around 0.5h. The end result is heavenly quietness :3
I had Lulzbot Mini for about year and a half at home and recently had experience using Mini 2 at work. I have to admit it’s like night and day! It is so much quieter!!! Now I can’t let go the idea of converting my version to make it quieter.
Would you be able to share your conversion process, or at least refer me to some sources of documentation? I’m OK with keeping old z-axis mechanics to keep the changes minimal. What else except the new RAMBO do I need?
just the einsy retro is enough for this mod, make sure you have the kit with the plugs/crimps! (I am ordering the plugs/crimps from ebay now//it’s a pain )
Are you ready, this post is a long one …
Basicly I did the following: -open frame, remove old mainboard, take pictures during for later use or use (Aleph Object's official assembly pictures) https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/86510011-df83-408c-a220-1dcf8c5a7262/mini/ -replace the mainboard -frame fan needs new cable plug, plug to a fan port->you will notice if you chose the wrong one later when booting :wink: -get the lulzbot firmware from their github repository https://code.alephobjects.com/diffusion/MARLIN/repository/devel/ -from marlin replace the mini setup from conditionals_Lulzbot.h under * PRINTER MODEL CHARACTERISTICS * section ----from this> /*# * if defined(LULZBOT_Gladiola_Mini) #define LULZBOT_CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "LulzBot Mini" #define LULZBOT_LCD_MACHINE_NAME "Mini" #define LULZBOT_IS_MINI #define LULZBOT_MINI_BED #define LULZBOT_USE_AUTOLEVELING #define LULZBOT_USE_MIN_ENDSTOPS #define LULZBOT_USE_MAX_ENDSTOPS #define LULZBOT_USE_NORMALLY_OPEN_ENDSTOPS #define LULZBOT_USE_Z_SCREW #define LULZBOT_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION #define LULZBOT_BAUDRATE 250000 #define LULZBOT_PRINTCOUNTER #define LULZBOT_UUID "351487b6-ca9a-4c1a-8765-d668b1da6585" #endif */ -->to this> #if defined(LULZBOT_Gladiola_Mini) #define LULZBOT_CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "LulzBot Mini FRNK" #define LULZBOT_LCD_MACHINE_NAME "Mini FRNK" #define LULZBOT_IS_MINI #define LULZBOT_MINI_BED #define LULZBOT_USE_EINSY_RETRO #define LULZBOT_USE_AUTOLEVELING #define LULZBOT_USE_MIN_ENDSTOPS #define LULZBOT_USE_MAX_ENDSTOPS #define LULZBOT_USE_NORMALLY_OPEN_ENDSTOPS #define LULZBOT_USE_TMC_STEALTHCHOP_Z //#define LULZBOT_USE_TMC_HYBRID_THRESHOLD #define LULZBOT_USE_Z_SCREW #define LULZBOT_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION #define LULZBOT_BAUDRATE 250000 #define LULZBOT_PRINTCOUNTER #define LULZBOT_UUID "351487b6-ca9a-4c1a-8765-d668b1da6585" #endif notice the "LulzBot Mini FRNK" FRNK for frankenstein :smiley: -then in configuration_Lulzbot.h make sure you have these: #define LULZBOT_Gladiola_Mini #define TOOLHEAD_Gladiola_SingleExtruder -then update/check the configuration.h/conditionals_lulzbot.h -bed size -end stops -currents -esteps should be copied from mini 2 settings -make sure that offsets are ok, nozzle wipe is ok after this I found out that the 5V hotend fan needs power -I used the P3 pins 2&4, P3 is the one that is upright on the board, check the schematic if unsure https://github.com/ultimachine/EinsyRetro/blob/1.0b/board/Project%20Outputs%20for%20EinsyRetro/Schematic%20Prints_EinsyRetro_1.0b.PDF This should be all ^^! as a teaser: https://www.instagram.com/p/BmYMNjRnJT-/?taken-by=3dprint_fi literally from the 1st sample filament to this mod ps. I have some issues with my bed, since it signals alot of 0c while printing(cable issue most likely). Other than that this is a beast of a setup! pps. I have a keen eye on the prusa mk3 MMU2 kit, this could be quite easily (max. a weekend) be transferred to any marlin :stuck_out_tongue: ppps. This instruction is a bit pseudo for a reason, this is a path for only to those that know what they are doing :wink: pppps. I tried to use as much as possible of the ready made code. If you have any issues please let me/us know!
Kauppinen, thank you very much for such a deep and detailed post! Everything looks reasonably simple. It should be my next project once I come back from my vacation.
PS your video on instagram is a blast!!!
I see, I had the same issue but didn’t remember it anymore at the time of the earlier post
make sure that you have this at the Conditionals_LulzBot.h:
#define LULZBOT_STEALTH_FREQ 46900
I have this setup like so (but basically does the same–>
//st.stealth_freq(LULZBOT_STEALTH_FREQ); // f_pwm = 2/683 f_clk
st.stealth_freq(46900); // f_pwm = 2/683 f_clk
This defines the stealthchop mode’s frequency. This is at 0 normally so no movement thru the stepper drivers. This explains the mode your printer is in.
This value is from the Trinamic datasheet, so not out of the blue.
I hope this helps you!
Also TMC2130 code library must be included/imported to the Arduino IDE
Awesome, thank you. I’ll give all this a go and see if it also helps my problems. If so, I can proooobably release a forked version of the firmware with a new profile for this setup.
I’ve managed to get it to move everything in one direction but not the other regardless of which direction I tell things to move. Which makes 0 sense from what I’ve seen of the firmware, and I have had almost no time to debug.
Sorry guys for being awol for a while. beepboopclick, make sure you have the switching frequency dialed in correctly.
To speed things up for you:
Here is my original build, this build is a bit jerky and the case fan is loud so you might want to address those.
->change accelerations and install noctua fan to the case
I hope this will help anyone with a non functioning firmware build! At least DPmakestuff was succesful with this build last autumn.
disclaimer: Use this only if you know what you are doing. I am not responsible for broken units or damages to property etc.
Fantastic, thank you! I’ll give a look.
Hey, I can move everything in the proper directions now. Woo woo! Now to finish buttoning up and see about doing some tuning. Thank you!