I received a LulzBot Mini v1.3 as a gift a while ago and became busy with work not getting much time with it. It’s in like new shape and I know a very capable machine, however, now that I am getting some free time to start using it, it appears that it is not as well supported. What are modifications and upgrades I should look into for longevity and serviceability?
I also just inherited a LulzBot TAZ 6 with the Aerostruder V1, but it was used, abused, and tinkered with. It is not functioning at the moment (not completing) a leveling cycle. I was able to rewire it since someone decided to rearrange the stepper motor connectors and the stop switches. So I have the same question as above what are modifications and upgrades I should look into for longevity and serviceability?
I would like to make these reliable printers, they have a solid construction for the most part IMHO.
Did you inherit stacks of 2.85mm filament with the printers? If so, I’d probably get the mini working to burn through it. If it still has the “mini” single extruder, give it the Aerostruder (if you weren’t lucky enough to get one with one), and flash the Marlin 2.0.0.144 Mini w/ Aerostruder firmware NO-LCD or with LCD and run that with the 4.13.8 version of CuraLE (details here). Once you’ve exhausted all your 2.85mm filament with the Mini, you can decide whether it’s worth it to convert to a 1.75mm toolhead. If you did not receive any 2.85mm filament, you can do a conversion of the Aerostruder to 1.75mm details here, most of which apply to the Dual Extruder, but cross over to the single aerostruder (just make sure you get the correct mirrored/standard parts. IIRC, the Aerostruder v1 is not mirrored).
For the Taz6, since it’s already in need of fixing, I’d upgrade… but keep in mind that while they’re very robust and reliable, they are slow. What’s your budget for getting it up? If you can handle configuring Marlin yourself, and source clones of name-brand parts from aliexpress, you can easily get it running with silent steppers, BLTouch, dual z axis control, 1.75mm dual-geared toolhead and more for around $200. Even at that low price, you need to ask yourself if you wouldn’t be better off with something like a Bambu A1 mini.
I did inherit some filament:
- eSun PETG
- Taulman T-Glase, N910, Alloy 910, and Bridge
- Polymaker Polycarbonate ABS
plus I have some PLA, ABS, and HIPS from messing with the mini, I also have an Aerostruder v1 for the mini.
Wow that Bambu looks nice for the price. But what would I do with the mini, would someone here buy it?
Taz Minis don’t go for much, mostly because, well, the Bambu A1 Mini exists and is pretty damn good… You’d be trying to offload a slow, used printer that needs a computer attached to operate, which uses a semi-obsolete filament size, and has a somewhat troublesome auto leveling sequence. For most people that’s not worth the shipping cost. If I were to get one free, I’d probably just use it enough to be more familiar with them for helping people out on this forum.
ohai.lulzbot.com will help you with basic repairs on the Taz 6. Pictures and video of the attempted leveling sequence would help determine where you should start.
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Well I was able to add this to the Mini : Reprap Smart Controller 12864 LCD Display
And so far it’s working great. So no computer needs to be attached, which I found annoying before.
The TAZ is nice because I wanted the build volume. I have been a mechanical designer for the past 10 years or so and have worked with many 3d printers (Stratasys and 3D Systems) for rapid prototyping, manufacturing tooling, and production parts.
What gains are there going to the Marlin 2 firmware?
I do find the Bambu Mini enticing, especially with cost to switch to 1.75mm filament, perhaps I will work with my LulzBot Mini to get the TAZ running and possibly donate my LulzBot Mini to a school or organization.
There’s no huge gains with something like the mini by switching to Marlin 2, but previous versions aren’t compatible with CuraLE 4.x. There’s bits of the startup scripts in firmware and Cura that will conflict.
A lot of schools wouldn’t know what to do with something like the mini, unless they already had a good person running their 3d printing program. I just picked up a easily fixed Taz Pro for $200 from a local high school since they had either given up the 3d printing program, or just moved on to cheaper, newer machines. A local makerspace might be better luck, since those tend to attract some of the old reprap crowd.
That’s the bottom of the hot end. What’s the best way to clean that up?
Disconnect the toolhead from the gantry, but leave it connected to the harness. Set it on it’s side (like in the picture there) and on something that can hold it steady. You want it in a position that is very accessible and comfortable for you to work on it.
Get some wooden toothpicks or popsicle sticks (nothing metal!) and set the hot end temp to about 160 (assuming it’s PLA on there).
Then just relax and work it off, bit by bit. Be very careful around the heater and thermistor wires. If you break either one, you’ll be stuck using a heat gun and there’s a decent chance of breaking wires or melting plastic bits of the toolhead.
I removed quite a bit with toothpicks and some needle nose pliers once I was able to get some out with the toothpick.(pliers not neat metal) I don’t know what that filament was but I had to go to 210 just for it to soften up enough for the toothpick to move it and not break. I might dissemble it tomorrow and use a heat gun, the toothpicks could only do so much before they broke. Would it be possible to soak it in anything like acetone (don’t know if acetone would break down whatever is on it)
Don’t use acetone around the plastic of the toolhead, but if you can get the hot end off, you should be fine to give it a try.
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