Lulzbot Taz 6 Printer quality

Hi all. I have owned the Taz 6 for about 2 years now and I absolutely hate the thing. It sits in the corner and just doesn’t get used. I have a $200 printer that prints so much better than this thing. Well yesterday I was needing to print some high quality large prints and asking myself “man I need to buy a good 3d printer” then realized I have this paper weight over here that must be better than what I am getting from it.

Hoping someone can help me get some good quality prints from this thing.

I have troubleshot and fixed most of the issues, parts not sticking to bed, unclean prints, excess material, ect… My biggest and last major problem is the smoothness. The print lines are atrocious and I have tried a hundred things to get rid of them
I am using 2.85mm PLA. I have an enclosure and print in a garage that stays around 85 degrees.

Any tips would be VERY helpful. Thanks!

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As a side note I switched out the PLA for PCTPE and gonna do a print then post pics if it still has layering issues.

This is the PCTPE. Horrible quality

This is PLA. Horrible quality

This is suppose to be a detailed table for miniatures. The one with the 3 things on top are suppose to be cups on a table. The quality is total crap and I am not sure how to make better. The one with the cups is PLa, the one without is PCTPE.

Without any reference, it’s hard to know how big these parts are but since you mentioned miniatures, I’m guessing pretty small. The stock nozzle in the TAZ 6 is .5mm. My son wanted me to print some miniatures for him and I did so successfully after replacing my .5mm nozzle with a .2mm. I also have a .35mm which is a good compromise.

Sorry to hear you’re not getting good quality prints from your Taz 6. Did you buy it new? Did it ever give you good quality prints? There is a facebook group called Lulzbot mini and Taz 3D with a number of very knowledgeable people there who are likely to be able to help you troubleshoot your issues. I’ve had a Taz 6 for 3 years and am very happy with mine.

I usually don’t respond to the forum notifications I get in my email because I believe it’s Lulzbot\s way of not helping customers directly. However…

I have had a TAZ5 for 5 years and I am still learning how to use it. Make Magazine rated the TAZ line of printers as among the best desktop printers.

What you describe may be the same problem that most people have with TAZ printers and that is one of practice and experimentation. TAZ printers are extremely versatile. On the other hand if you have anything but an E3D V6 hot end on your print head that is one problem. The “Hexagon” hot end does not heat very evenly in my experience. The next problem(s) are those of level and layer height. I don’t know if you have auto leveling but if you do you are ahead of the game. Setting your layer heights correctly may be at issue.

I have taken to making the acquaintance of the owners of Protopasta and if you are using a 0.5 mm or greater nozzle you won’t get good results. The TAZ printers and 2.85mm filament don’t play nice with each other. To use the words of ProtoPasta support the combination is “finicky.” For fine layer lines you will have to go with a fine nozzle. However getting a balance between temperature and print speed with the 2.85 filament is tricky.

I am waiting at the moment for Alex, the co-owner of Proto Pasta to get back with me as he is working with me to correct the print profiles for PLA. My big deal is that I am working with metal filament and that is part of my problem.

I have had some nice prints with my TAZ 5 (which has a bigger print volume than TAZ6) but I am struggling with metal filament.

You did not say what slicer you are using as it does make a difference. Layer width 120% seem to be generally recommended so if you have a nozzle width of .5 you will have a layer width of .65 The finer your layer height the finer and smoother your lines. Nozzle widths of .4 or less with the idea of no layer height greater than 80% of nozzle width is a good rule.

Knowing that Facebook has a 3D print group may help you as well.

Thanks so much for the comments and suggestions. Yeah its pretty crappy that Taz won’t even bother to comment here.

So basically the object here is spend $2500 for a printer that is setup wrong to begin with so go out and spend more money, time, and effort to change a bunch of parts out to then make this POS work? This just doesn’t make sense to me. I am not having any issues with other 3d printers I have.
So if I change my nozzle out to 2mm I assume I will need to start using the 1.85 filament but anything else I need to change out?

I did find one issue last night when going through and checking the machine. One of the parts are broke. This must have happened while it was sitting as last I checked it was fine. Taz must have used a Taz6 to print these parts as they are flimsy and break easily.

The printer, even before the break has always printed crap parts. I use Cura, Lulzbot edition to print the parts.
I will try the 2mm but if it still sucks then I will just sell this POS. I also ordered a SLA printer that gets here tomorrow for the fine printing I need to do. Once again thanks for everyone’s help. I will do a review on youtube and all the other media sites I can find showing my broke machine and the prints it produces even after fixed.

You have two choices, you can spend some time and money and get the Taz up and running correctly or dump it and yourself an Ender-3 or the like. The Taz can and does print well. It is well made and can print a larger variety of filaments than the Ender-3. I would suggest if you want to get the Taz running, get that pet printed and start with printing a calibration cube. Post that and then we can help.

I would agree with you but this is twice now this thing has broke with under 25 parts printed. How much money should I spend? I already spent 2500 buying it plus money fixing it. Now you want me to spend more? I bought a Ender 5. Selling this junk. Thanks for all the help.

Totally understand, it can be frustrating. Good luck and enjoy your new printer!

I had a similar problem with the Lulzbot mini. The problem was the fan which cools the electronics had become disconnected and so the chip that controls the Z-axis was overheating, shutting off, and the stepping motor was not indexing properly. I fixed the fan now it works fine. (Worth taking a look to see if fan is turning).

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Where are you and how do you want for the TAZ6?

Also, how many hours are on the the machine?

I am in Nashville. There has only been 37 prints on the machine total. I got it working by fixing the broken piece but I bought an Ender 5 that I like a lot better so I put this one on Facebook market place for $1400.

On the printer, scroll down to “About Printer” and then to “Stats”.

On this screen you’ll find recorded hours printing and other relevant information. Please photo ALL and drop here.

I’m guessing the broken left vertical bearing part broke because the left and right vertical steppers motors where out of sync?

I would take $1100 plus $100 for shipping and I will throw in a USB drive of about $1500 of commercial mid-evil style printable models.