Need to replace a couple of molex crimp pins in my Mini 2 tool head wiring bundle.
I’ve read the Ohai notes but still uncertain what pins to buy for the 20 pin housing. Part numbers anyone?
Amazon link?
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Removing pins from the Molex harness used in the Mini2 without damaging the case isn’t an easy task, even with the proper removal tool. It won’t hurt to have spares of all the parts before attempting replacement.
But the parts you need can be found in the bill of materials:
Male: Molex 0430310001
Female: Molex 16-02-0086
Harness parts: Molex 0430202001 and Molex 0430252000
Most helpful-Thanks again
Ordering some magnifying glasses to help seeing how/where to crimp. Also, the pins seem appropriate for all wires except the insulation diameter of the heater element leads. And Yes, I think the pin housing was damaged when removing the previous heater’s pins because my newly crimped lead will not click into place. 
If you’re not using a dedicated crimping tool for small pins, it’s extremely difficult to get them the right shape without damaging the pin.
I use this one (sponsored link disclaimer goes here) https://amzn.to/3X0TVHD but there’s plenty to choose from.
I am finally back to repairing my wonderful Mini2…
As soon as I turn on the mini2, the heater block begins heating up.
That seemed to be a thermistor issue. However, it tests to be 14. Ohms… which should be good. I spliced into the back side (Rambo side) of the 20 pin female molex connector and there is continuity from there to the thermistor and from there to the 2 pin board connector.
Any troubleshooting suggestions for me? Thanks!
If it’s heating immediately upon turning on, I’d be looking into failed MOSFETs or similar. Related topic: Turn on Printer and Nozzle Instantly Starts Heating : BIGTREETECH
Ticking sound coming from electronics cabinet of mini2 after installing new Rambo board?
Restarted CURA and mini2 with cabinet cover open to better identify source of sound. No ticking. Closed the cabinet cover and restarted yet again. Still no ticking. 
It is possible that a wire is running against the control box fan and that is generating the noise.
It also would explain why it goes away when the case is open.
Could have been. I had zip-tied some power supply wires. Cut them loose while inside. No ticking.
Everything seems to be up and running well, except I now have heater bed temp run away. Will track that down. Maybe bed sensor molex not seated properly…?