Is this image from the printer with the temperature issues?
One thing I haven’t asked you to check … (and do this when the hot-end is fully cooled down) … are both the heater-cartridge and thermistor solidly in the heat-block?
Both of these are cylindrical and slide into the heat-block and have a screw that clamps on them to hold them tight. If, for some reasons, a screw was loose then the heat-cartridge wouldn’t transfer heat efficiently or the thermistor core wouldn’t read the temperature accurately.
As for have a good filament profile … there’s a range of temperatures where a profile will “work” – even if not ideal.
Whenever I work with a brand new filament, I often like to print something called a “temperature tower”. This is a model that has several “levels” (think of it like floors on a tall building) where each “level” is printed at a different temperature. e.g. 250, then 245, then 240, 235, 230, etc. etc. and you can set the range to be reasonable based on the recommended range for the filament.
The “levels” include features to test things like regular solid walls, overhangs, bridging over gaps, and sometimes even strength tests.
Once the part is completed, it usually becomes pretty clear which temperature did the best, had the least stringing, the best strength, etc.
I outline the steps in this thread:
I find that most PLA, for example, prints perfect floors at 230°C on both my TAZ Workhorse and TAZ Pro (these are using the HE 0.5mm hardened steel nozzles … the profile might be tweaked if using brass nozzles.)
I do see other issues in your first layer. It looks like you’ve got gaps where the printer is either beginning or ending extrusion. There can be many reasons why this might happen. But I’d like to make sure foundational things like temperature are under control before going too far into the weeds.