Taz 6 not printing to expectations. What slicer settings should I adjust to get a better print?

General Software
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I like to print this cell phone stand as gifts for people

I bought a couple Taz 6’s and a mini from FB marketplace, and I’ve been printing on one of the Taz 6’s. I have not brought the other 2 online yet. I use the Lulzbot Cura slicer and Octoprint (via Octopi image) to print over my network. I’ve going through my old stock of 3mm filament on the 3mm standard/base 0.5mm nozzle. I have only printed PLA so far with this Taz 6. OG PLA, not PLA+.

The Taz 6 struggles with small details, and I can’t get it to print a good copy of this cell phone holder. I have tried all three default profiles. I’ve had moderate success at 125% size where the phone holder can move with a lot of friction, but that’s not how it was designed. The problem is that the design has air gaps where the print is supposed to break free and then spin freely. On a bad print, the part is completely fused together and won’t budge at all unless I break it. On an almost print, I can snap the parts free after engaging my muscles, but they only move with great friction, which is not how it’s supposed to work. On successful prints from other printers, once you snap the parts free, they are flippy-floppy, and it’s almost a fidget toy.

What slicer settings should I adjust to get a better print? As the creator suggested, I have clicked “Print thin walls”, and that was what let me get as much success as I could at 125% size.

I have 2x Ender 3v2s and 2x Prusa I3 MK3s+'s that can print it with no issue. One Prusa has a 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle and can print the holder in PLA and PETG no problem, even at 50% size. Super easy. I have a 3rd Ender 3v2 with a 1mm Bondtech CHD nozzle that also struggles to print this cell phone holder properly, even at 125%, which is why I think it’s slicer settings that are to blame for both the Taz and the Ender 3v2.

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It depends on the tool head & other factors but you can ask support for help if you like but hold up is the PLA dried & stored properly?

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The Taz6 in stock configuration is poor at PLA printing for several reasons:

0.5mm nozzle is not as good at detail as .4.

2.85mm filament means a thicker melt zone, which means more oozing than with 1.75mm, which means poorer detail.

The part cooling on the Taz6 is designed around ABS, so is inadequate for most PLA printing of bridges, overhangs, or air gaps for breaking free.

The single-piece hexagon hot end doesn’t have the same heatbreaking that a bi-metal filament tube/heatsink does, so heatcreep becomes a factor, even if it doesn’t lead to jamming, it still affects filament motion after retractions/movements.

To print details well with 2.85 PLA, you need a different toolhead. 5015 blower fan for part cooling, titanium bi-metal heatbreak helps, and a .4mm nozzle. The 0.5SE hot end does a bit better than the 0.5 Single Extruder (bad naming convention, I know), but PLA is just generally a poor plastic for 2.85mm filament.

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It’s also worth noting the prusa models mentioned are more modern

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I also meant to ask which year of manufacture is the ender 3 because yes you can buy Chinese copies but lulzbots are built to last long term