I am a teacher at a school and inherited a taz6 in our makerspace from the previous teacher. I was running it how it was set up until the nozzle tip broke off. I decided to upgrade the toolhead and purchased the SE 2.85mm. I got the universal adapter and followed the information in the startup guide about flashing the firmware. I did not change anything with the z-offset and it is currently at -1.2
When I go to print, in the wiping process, it looks like the nozzle is digging in deeper than it should and the entire toolhead is wobbling up/down during the wipe. Is this normal or should I change the z-offset?
The Z offset is the difference from where the probe (nozzle) measures zero (from the top of the washers) to the print surface after wiping. It will have no effect on the wipe position, as that is done from “mechanical” zero, which is determined by the trigger point of the metal Z limit button and the limit switches for x/y.
Is your nozzle pressing near the center of the button? If not, you may not have selected the tool from the toolhead menu on the printer. If you do not have a toolhead menu on the printer, you need to update to the 2.x “universal” firmware instead of the 1.x that may still be on your inherited printer. It will not automatically update from 1.x to 2.x. You will have to manually select the proper firmware to get on the 2.x upgrade path.
If you’ve done all this, and it’s still wiping too deep, your metal Z limit button may be triggering a little late. You can try and check for a loose switch, or you can adjust the wipe position in your startup GCODE.
Some rocking is normal, as it’s trying its best to get any crud off the nozzle, but without video of how much yours is a-rockin’ I cannot determine the amount of a-knockin’ that’s needed.
That’s completely normal. You have an SE tool head mounted onto an adapter mounted to an already wobbly Taz 6 tool head mount. Factor in aged Igus bearings, and you get what you see here. My brand new Taz Pro has wobble like that.
Those tool heads are pretty front heavy.
You can technically adjust that wipe depth via the start gcode, but I honestly don’t see that as excessive movement during the wipe per your video.
Thanks. And do you have any tips or tricks for loading the filament. I am struggling getting the filament down the channel, let alone having it past the hobb gear.
It keeps getting stuck in the square openings in the black filament tube structure. I eventually get it but it takes a few minutes, while the old toolhead took a matter of seconds to take out and swap the filament. I have tried the 45 degree cut and the back cut, but it is still a challenge. It is definitely not the end of the world, but would love for a quicker solution if there is one out there.
Yes, that spot constantly catches the filament. Cut dual 45 degree cuts in the filament tip. It’s the only thing that works for me consistently.
Or you could print a new filament guide for the top of the tensioner… there may be one out there already, I’ve just always done the double cut method with the Aero.
